Mostar pension

When our group of 12 reached Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina, during ElderTreks “Adriatic Adventure” tour in September 2010, half of us had the pleasure of staying at Pension Botticelli (Muje Bjelavca br. 6, 88000 Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina; phone +387 36 319 057 or 63 890-658), just a three-minute walk from Mostar’s Old Town.

At Pension Botticelli, I truly had the feeling of being a guest rather than a tourist or traveler. All five guest rooms in this private home were on the ground floor, but none of them faced the street, so it was very quiet. The furniture was well designed; most importantly, the bed was comfortable.

Rooms 1, 2, 3 and 4 had patios that faced a large garden with a nice sitting area, colorful plantings, a koi pond and even archaeological elements.

I was in room No. 3, a double (two beds pushed together). I took a quick look at the other rooms; No. 1 had two beds and access to a patio; rooms 2, 3 (two beds together) and 4 (three beds) had patios with table and chairs overlooking the garden. Room 5 was an apartment with a double bed, kitchenette, large bathroom with tub, flat-screen TV and a private garden.

The price was €35 (near $47.50) for a single’s use of a double/twin room and €50 for two persons in a double or twin. The included breakfast consisted of rolls still warm from the bakery, cheeses, sausages, cereal, yogurt and beverages.

Our group of six plus the guide and driver took over the entire pension. Even though we all were on the same schedule, the showers maintained hot water and good pressure.

Our city stay in Bosnia & Herzegovina was coordinated by a local company, Fortuna Tours (Rade Bitange 34, 88104 Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina; phone +387 36 552 197). Be sure to stop by their office by the Old Bridge to see the short documentary on the history of Mostar and the reconstruction of the famous bridge.

Tips for visiting the Old City —

• The large cobblestones are brutal. You need good tread on your shoes — no sandals or flip-flops.

• Select a restaurant with a view of the bridge. We ate several meals at Restaurant Tomato (entrées about €10), which had a straight-on bridge view and excellent food. The entrance is not on the main pedestrian street, so look for a stand with a hostess displaying menus.

• Mostar’s Old Town is well worth visiting, but it has mosquitoes that are active 24/7, so use adequate repellent.

ESTHER PERICA

Arlington Heights, IL