This is the January 2020 issue


A frozen river winds through Winnipeg.
Looking for the northern lights in Churchill, Canada
By Marcia Brandes
Appears on Page 6
View from atop the Erbil Citadel, looking down at the plaza below.
Finding beauty in Iraqi Kurdistan
By Marilyn Marx Adelman
Appears on Page 20
We still do the touristy things, like visiting the Eiffel Tower.
Travel tips for the less able
By Paula Prindle
Appears on Page 40

Travelers' Intercom

Volunteer guides in Japan
By Diane Karpel
Appears on Page 14
Street in the Quartier Mazarin, Aix-en-Provence, France. Photos by Stephen Addison
Visiting Aix-en-Provence
Appears on Page 14
Many of Reykjavík’s buildings and homes are made of corrugated metal. Under the city streets, hot water running through pipes keeps the surface relatively free of snow in the winter. Photos by Deanna Palić
Quick visit to Reykjavík
By Deanna Palić
Appears on Page 17
Comparing Crystal, Viking and Silversea cruises
By Judith Anshin
Appears on Page 24
Azerbaijan guide follow-up
By Elnur Babayev
Appears on Page 25
Regent Seven Seas Explorer transatlantic
By Philip Shart
Appears on Page 26
Interior view of the Star Mosque in Dhaka. Photos by Peter Calingaert
Dhaka stopover and Nijhoom Tours
By Peter Calingaert
Appears on Page 28
Ukraine independence day scene in Chernihiv, Ukraine. Photo by Tony Leisner.
Eastern Europe with a private guide
By Tony Leisner
Appears on Page 31
Praise for Pietro in Puglia
By Linda Libertucci
Appears on Page 34
Biking the Danube on the cheap
By Carolyn Dockins
Appears on Page 35
Recommended carry-on bags
Appears on Page 37
In Shimla, the former residence of the British Viceroy of India now houses the Indian Institute of Advanced Study. Photos by Inga Aksamit
Shimla — cool respite from Delhi 
By Inga Aksamit
Appears on Page 43
Private small-group tour with TripUSAFrance
By Alice Meyer
Appears on Page 44
Credit cards declined in Baku
By Norm Dailey
Appears on Page 44
Switched to smartphone
By Dianne Robbins
Appears on Page 45

Calling All Readers! Call for Submissions

Girl with a Pearl Earring by Vermeer
Experience Collections
Appears on Page 17


Travelers in Venice can now enjoy a visit to the Doge’s Palace at night, when crowds are smaller. Photo by Rick Steves
What's new in Northern Italy for 2020
Rick Steves' Europe Supplemental

By Rick Steves

The pointed arches of Gothic cathedrals allow for dramatic stained-glass windows, such as the ones in Chartres’ cathedral. Photo by Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli
Centuries of survival: France's gothic cathedrals
Rick Steves' Europe Supplemental

By Rick Steves

Explore the sectarian neighborhoods of Belfast with a local guide who can offer insights and commentary on the area’s political murals. Photo by Jessica Shaw
Belfast blooms with history, resilience
Rick Steves' Europe Supplemental

By Rick Steves

In London, the courtyard at Somerset House transforms into an ice-skating rink every year from mid-November to January. Photo by Lauren Mills
Celebrating a Happy Christmas in England
Rick Steves' Europe Supplemental

By Rick Steves

ATMs are a frequent target for travel scams in Europe — if anyone’s around, cover the keypad when entering your PIN. Photo by Tom Griffin
Transcending travel troubles: Defend yourself against 21st-century travel scams
Rick Steves' Europe Supplemental

By Rick Steves

Carvings on the Whare Runanga, a Maori meeting house built in 1940 at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds in New Zealand. Photo: ©Rafael Ben-Ari/
Caution re boarding passes. Using payment apps in China. Applying for authorization to visit a country.
Boarding Pass

By David Tykol
Appears on Page 2
Emergency medical evacuation follow-up
Eye on Travel Insurance

By Wayne Wirtanen
Appears on Page 47
Chef Doreen Williams-James with Sea Purslane Fish Cake. Photos by Sandra Scott
What's Cooking in... Bermuda
What's Cooking in...

By Sandra Scott
Appears on Page 48
A cruise ship offers memorably fantastic views of the classic whitewashed villages of Santorini. Photo by Cameron Hewitt
Cruise control — how to sail smartly in Europe
Rick Steves' Europe

By Rick Steves
Appears on Page 49
Staircase and base of Building A at Dainzú. Photos by Julie Skurdenis.
A trio of Oaxacan sites
Focus on Archaeology

By Julie Skurdenis
Appears on Page 50
The Geografile
The Geografile

Appears on Page 52
Randy, with his Totto backpack, and his dog, Princess.
Sharing favorite On-the-Road Travel Tips
Far Horizons

By Randy Keck
Appears on Page 53

Funniest Thing

Translator's triumph
By Amy Goltz
Appears on Page 45

Where in the World? Correct Answers