Jordan — wonders of an ancient world

Ali, our knowledgeable tour guide, gestures expansively toward the waters of the Dead Sea and the distant hills beyond.

“Archaeologists and theologians agree,” he said, “this is where it all began. Here is where all of the prophets were born, lived and are buried. We are also in the midst of what is known as the Holy Land.”

In Jordan, at the Dead Sea, we are at the lowest dry point on Earth, some 1,300 feet below sea level, just beginning a journey that will take us back in time through layers of history as old as humankind. Our group of writers, photographers and film crew has come to explore Jordan’s historical sites, the most astounding of which is the Lost City of Stone, Petra.

Hidden from the world for centuries, this 2,000-year-old city carved out of a red sandstone valley has indelibly imprinted itself in the memory of all who have seen it.

Dead Sea therapy

Before heading to Petra, our group repaired from its 12-hour nonstop flight (Chicago to Amman) with an overnight stay on the northeastern shore of the Dead Sea. The same high mineral and salt content that causes the sea to be devoid of life also gives the water its curative powers, renowned since the days of Herod the Great more than 2,000 years ago.

With a morning at leisure, most of us headed for a float in the sea, so briny it is four times as salty as regular seawater. So salty, I found, that it was impossible to sink; I could, however, recline quite well on my back. I liked the idea of floating and healing at the same time.

Our hotel, the Mövenpick Resort & Spa (phone +962 5 356 11 11) combines a stone-village ambiance with state-of-the-art water therapy, all in a tranquil environment.

After my sea float, I relaxed with an immersion in the heated Hydropool, followed by a float in each of the two Dead Sea water pools. The hotel’s Zara Spa claims to be the largest and most advanced in the Middle East, and I resolved not to let another year go by without returning.

The road to Petra 

From the Dead Sea, we traveled to Petra via the Kings’ Highway, passing lovely rural countryside and visiting important historical sites along the way. The highway, meandering through rolling hills above the Dead Sea, was first mentioned in the Bible as the way four kings traveled from the north to battle five kings of southern Jordan.

Three hundred years before the birth of Christ, the merchant traders who inhabited Petra used the Kings’ Highway as a trade route between Syria and Arabia. Our group, traveling by van, arrived at our hotel, Taybet Zaman (phone 0 11 215 0111), in the town of Wadi Musa (Valley of Moses), near Petra, in time for an early dinner before the next morning’s dawn trek to Petra.

Taybet Zaman, meaning “The Good of Old Days,” was rebuilt from the remnants of an old Ottoman quarter. It is a fitting prelude to the ancient splendor of Petra.

Cobblestone lanes snake through the complex whose old cottage exteriors remain “as is.” Only the interiors have been refitted.

Local weavings enhanced the comfy suites, each containing a sitting room, sleeping chamber and full bath. The former stables house a full-service restaurant while souks selling local jewelry, Bedouin weavings, books and memorabilia line one of the narrow passageways.

Before dinner I joined other guests in the steamy hamman, an authentic Turkish bath that wrung the last remnants of road dust and jet lag from our bodies.

Travel concerns

Having visited Jordan and Petra in 1994, I had eagerly accepted the opportunity to return. A few days before my April ’04 departure, however, I heard of Jordan’s King Abdullah’s postponement of his U.S. visit with President Bush. Other news of turmoil in the Middle East concerned me, and I temporarily wavered in my enthusiasm. Would I be safe?

Anxiously, I checked the State Department’s website for warnings. In the end, I tossed fate to the winds. Had I known how welcome I would feel, had I anticipated the warmth and cordiality expressed by every Jordanian I met, I would not have hesitated.

My strong sense was that Jordanians like and admire American citizens. It would be naïve to surmise that they are not worried about their region — they are concerned — but theirs is a peaceful country with almost no record of violent crime. I could not have felt safer.

The history of the city

We entered the rose-red city of Petra by walking upon the same unpaved road traversed by the ancient Nabataeans who first settled this city of stone and upon which Roman chariot wheels once clattered. The city began as a sheltering site for Nabataean traders sometime around 312 B.C.

The Nabataeans, nomadic traders who transported incense, spices and perfume along major caravan routes, built Petra into a crossroads frequented by trading partners from Rome, Greece and Egypt. Savvy merchants who fostered harmonious relationships over hostilities, the Nabataeans provided shelter to traders and extended their trading empire as far as China and India.

Their construction of a sophisticated watering system provided Petra’s citizens with a constant supply of fresh springwater and transformed this dry, mountainous desert region into a spectacular oasis with fertile gardens, ornate houses and magnificent monuments.

Petra flourished from about 300 B.C. into A.D. 100, when Roman legions under the command of Trajan moved forward to capture the city. Petra remained prosperous after annexation by Rome, but, beginning in A.D. 363, a series of damaging earthquakes destroyed several of the city’s larger buildings and led to its eventual decline into obscurity.

A dramatic entrance

Entry fees into Petra fluctuate according to demand and the season. In April, admission was JD11 (near $15.50) plus JD7 for use of a horse, whether one chose to ride or not.

Like the Swiss explorer Johann Burckhardt, who rediscovered this lost city in 1812, I chose to walk rather than ride horseback through the Siq, a half-mile passageway that forms the entry into Petra. I wanted to reexperience the same wonder I had felt nine years earlier when I watched the rock colors change as the sun rose higher in the morning sky.

Carved by the elements, the winding cliffs of roseate sandstone rise up to 60 feet. At the end of this otherworldly passageway, the incredible sight of a soaring, pink-columned, Greek-style temple magically appeared through the opening in the marbleized rock. Called al Khazneh, or the Treasury, it is built into the sheer face of a 120-foot cliff face and is amazingly well preserved.

Once through the Siq, the city unfolds as part of an almost crescent-shaped valley, surrounded by rock cliffs.

Taking in the sights

Within these roseate walls reside the remnants of hundreds of temples, homes, burial chambers and theaters. Hewn directly into the multicolored cliffs, the temples and dwellings can be seen at ground level and up along many ledges and promontories in the rock walls.

In addition to the Siq and the Treasury, the most important sites are the High Place of Sacrifice, a mountaintop altar with views across the whole of Petra; the East Cliff, a line of impressive royal tombs, and the Monastery, a façade every bit as impressive as the Treasury.

Some of our group followed Ali through the main sites, absorbing his knowledge of the history of the Nabataeans. Others, like me, found themselves spellbound by the beauty and ingenuity still very evident. I hired a donkey (JD5) for the half-hour climb up the mountain to Petra’s Monastery façade. Viewed from a high hilltop perch, its energy seemed as compelling today as it must have been 2,000 years ago.

Vendors sell water and snacks throughout the main walking areas, but the best place to find a meal is at Basin (phone 03 215 6266). Located not far from the end of the Colonnaded Street, the eatery’s covered patio sheltered our tables, which were generously spread with white cloths. We enjoyed a typical buffet replete with hummus, baba ganoosh, fresh vegetables, meats and a dessert offering that included creamy chocolate mousse.

Just behind Basin, a small museum displayed recently uncovered artifacts, and across from the restaurant, up a stone stairway, another museum held more treasures.

One last look

Petra is open from 6 a.m. until sunset. Knowing that the van would be waiting until sunset, I stayed until closing.

As the afternoon waned, I climbed up past the second-story museum and found myself alone on an outcropping that overlooks a huge canyon. With the sun dropping behind Petra’s western ramparts, I sat on a flat ledge with a view of the layered hills and the valley winding through them.

As low light warmed the rocks, turning them from grayish beige to pinkish purple, peach and soft yellow, I gazed in wonder, like Burckhardt before me, at the remarkable achievements of the Nabataean Arabs.

Returning, I came upon an old man with two little boys. They were earnestly coaxing a small campfire to life amidst an indentation in the rocks. One boy held a copper teapot.

The old man motioned for me to join them. “Come. Have tea,” he insisted. Despite his limited English, he told me that he, a descendant of the Nabataeans, lives in a cave in the mountains of Petra. . . and I almost believed him.

I left reluctantly, marveling not only at the Nabataeans but at Burckhardt. The city, when he found it, was unmarked on most maps and had been unseen by outsiders for more than 500 years.

Many now consider Petra to be the eighth wonder of the ancient world.

Jerash

After Petra, Jerash is Jordan’s most well known and visited site. Home to the annual Jerash Festival, a summer showcase of cultural events, the well-preserved Roman ruins of this once-glorious city are a marvel of symmetry and dramatic design.

We spent a full afternoon there, but it wasn’t nearly enough. The site warrants at least a full day. As at Petra, archaeological digs are ongoing, albeit slow. Jordan itself is an archaeological paradise, one of the premier spots on the planet for exploration.

Jerash’s Greco-Roman and Byzantine remains date from the second century B.C. to the fourth century A.D. The Roman emperor Hadrian visited Jerash in A.D. 130 and the citizens were so honored that they constructed the massive triple-arched gateway now known as Hadrian’s Arch. Near the arch, the remains of an ancient hippodrome where chariots once raced still contain some of the original starting gates.

Entering the site of the ruins, we quickly hiked uphill to view Jerash’s amphitheater. En route, we traversed the Sacred Way to the Temple of Zeus. The temple sits on a knoll overlooking the colonnaded Oval Plaza. In its heyday, it must have been quite a sight.

The South Theatre, built in A.D. 90, seats 3,000. Wealthy citizens funded the amphitheater, and some of the numbered seats on the lower, sheltered side of the auditorium appear to have been reserved as reward for those generous donors. The theater’s restored stage, topped in beautifully carved and elaborate detail, today plays host to live audiences during the Jerash Festival.

I climbed to one of the top rows in the massive amphitheater. Sitting on one of the stone seats, I imagined being surrounded by thousands of Jerashi citizens caught up in the drama of a live performance. My reverie was soon interrupted by a rambunctious group of schoolchildren as they came romping through the ruins. Full of life and laughter, their voices echoed off the ancient stones — a happy reminder of our modern world.

On to Amman

Jerash’s hotel facilities are practically nonexistent, but it is a good day trip from the capital, Amman, with its wide array of lodging.

Roman ruins abound throughout Jordan. The great Roman forum dominates downtown Amman. The massive Roman theater, overlooking the still-bustling forum area, was the pulse of Amman’s cultural life when the city was known as Philadelphia during Roman times. It’s still a vibrant hangout.

On a sunny April day, Ammanis crowded the nearby cafés, relaxed in the sun on the theater steps and promenaded up and down the nearby walkways.

The theater was built in the second century to seat 6,000. I tested the acoustics by standing in the middle of the orchestra on a tile marked with an X, the spot where the main speaker would stand to address the audience. I shouted to all within earshot, all the way up to the bleachers. Then I stepped several feet to one side and shouted again. Only my first shout clearly echoed back at me.

Our group visited the Hussein Mosque in Amman, where all the women were required to don black, hooded, choir-type gowns before we were allowed to enter. Once inside, Ali explained the basic tenets of Islam, telling us that Mohammed is seen as the last of the prophets sent by God and that Islam is comparable to both Christianity and Judaism in its belief in one God.

A look back in time

Each day of our journey unearthed another layer of history, bringing to life many of the places I had read about as a child. In Madaba, known as the City of Mosaics, we visited St. George’s Church.

Laid out on the church floor is a mosaic map of the Holy Land, created sometime in the sixth century. The fragmented remains depict the larger cities of biblical times, such as Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Jericho and Kerak. I was amused to see that the artist had depicted two fish swimming back from the entrance to the Dead Sea, their mouths turned downward as if to say, “It’s too salty for us!”

Near Madaba, to the northwest, our van drove up a series of hills known from biblical times as Mount Nebo. This is considered Jordan’s most important biblical site, with significance for Jews, Christians and Muslims.

On this remote summit, Moses, after a 40-year search, looked out upon the forbidden Promised Land. Possibly, he stood at cliff’s edge viewing the same incredible panorama that can still be seen today.

In the distance lay the “land of milk and honey,” crowned by Jerusalem’s Mount of Olives, and the Dead Sea’s northern shore. Sunlight reflected off a ribbon of the River Jordan with Jericho across its bank.

The stone-clad Moses Memorial Church, also on this summit, was once a monastery. It houses some of the most beautiful mosaic tableaux in Jordan. We were fortunate to enter during a religious service, a Catholic Mass, yet we were still allowed to wander around and view the many mosaics, some dating to the sixth century.

Petra comes to the U.S.

The Cincinnati Art Museum and the Jordan Tourism Board sponsored my trip to Jordan. Opening Sept. 14, 2004, the most comprehensive collection of materials from Petra ever assembled will be on display at the Cincinnati Art Museum. Many of the outstanding treasures will be on view in the United States for the first time.

When I traveled to Jordan nine years ago, my visit was inspired by the desire to visit the lost city of Petra. After spending eight days traveling throughout the country on this trip, I found a place rich in culture, steeped in history and populated by a welcoming, warm people.

Jordan travel tips

Currency — During my visit, the rate of exchange was $1.41 per Jordanian dinar, colloquially called the “jaydee.” I found it convenient to mentally add 30% to arrive at the dollar cost of prices quoted in dinars.

Dining — With the exception of a few meals, we enjoyed delicious, hearty breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets wherever we dined in the country. Jordan’s cuisine is typically Middle Eastern, with emphasis on grains, beans, vegetables and fruits and accents of fresh fish and meats.

Air Travel — Royal Jordanian Airlines (phone 800/223-0470), flies direct from Chicago O’Hare International three times a week on its winter schedule. Traveling from San Francisco, I flew to Chicago on a Sunday, overnighted at the convenient O’Hare Marriott (phone 800/228-9290) and was well rested for the Monday evening flight to Amman.

Our Guide — Ali Abu Shakra (phone 0 11 962 79 556 1349) is one of the best guides I’ve encountered in many years of international travel. Ali attended university in the United States and speaks several languages. His knowledge, professionalism and love for his country are exemplary. Ali leads private and group tours throughout Jordan.

Jerash Festival — An international annual showcase for dance and musical performances of the Arab world, the Jerash Festival for Culture and Art also highlights visiting troupes from Europe. For more information, visit www.jerashfestival.com.jo.

For further information on Jordan, contact the Jordan Tourism Board of North America (6867 Elm St., Ste. 102, McLean, VA 22101; phone 877/733-5673).

Exhibit — The “Petra, Lost City of Stone” exhibit at the Cincinnati Art Museum (953 Eden Park Dr., Cincinnati, OH 45202; phone 513/721-ARTS or visit www.
cincinnatiartmuseum.org) will showcase the magnificent capital of Nabataean culture. Museumgoers will be introduced to the exhibit by a 10-foot-tall rendering of Petra’s most recognized façade, the Treasury, viewed through the cavernous walls of the famed Siq. The exhibit will run through Jan. 30, 2005.

The Petra exhibit could not have come together without tremendous cooperation from many people both in the U.S. and Jordan. The Royal Family of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan has lent its full support to the project.

The idea for the Petra exhibit was conceived in 1994 on the occasion of the visit of Her Majesty Queen Noor al Hussein to the Cincinnati Art Museum, and her assistance since has proved invaluable.