A special place in the South Pacific

If you enjoy discovering new places, here is a very special treat.

Approximately 420 miles east of Sydney, Australia, is Lord Howe Island. It was discovered in 1788 and named after the English First Lord of the Admiralty. It is a remnant of a large shield volcano that erupted from the sea about seven million years ago and is now estimated to be one-fortieth of its original size. The island measures seven miles by one mile, with most of the population living in the northern part.

The spectacular landscape includes mountains and cliffs climbing to 875 meters. The area abounds with rare plants, birds and marine life. One bird, the woodhen‚ is about the size of a chicken and flightless.

In December 1982 in Paris, Lord Howe Island became one of only four island groups in the world to be chosen by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. It not only met the four requirements, it exceeded them, as the island also has the southernmost coral reef in the world accompanied by a crystal-clear lagoon.

There are only 340 islanders, and a tourist limit of 400 at any one time allows the island to remain a pristine paradise. The island is closed to visitors Dec. 19-Jan. 21.

On the commuter flight out of Sydney, there is a weight restriction of 14 kilos plus one cabin baggage of four kilos. Your flight is met by your chosen lodging host in their bare feet. Going barefoot is a custom among locals, and that is how you can tell them apart from the visitors. Informal casual wear, good walking shoes and a sweater or jacket make your wardrobe complete.

Credit cards accepted on Lord Howe are AmEx, Bankcard, MasterCard and Visa. Electrical current is 240V.

There are no phones or television, and the only papers are brought in by daily newcomers. The absence of media makes this the ideal paradise in which to relax.

The energetic can partake in many activities such as biking, golfing, fishing, bird-watching, snooker, bowls, hiking, guided nature walks, snorkeling, scuba, tennis, picnics, barbecues, kayaking, boat trips (including glass-bottom boats) and scenic flights. There is also a special place where you can hand feed the fish at Ned’s Beach‚ on the northeast part of the island.

There is virtually no crime on the island, and there is only one police officer. This individual is a jack of all chores as he is also the detective, coroner, Customs & Immigration official, disaster coordinator, environmental officer and issuer of licenses for vehicles, drivers, boats and fishing. He has his own residence adjacent to the one-room police station.

In addition to accommodating visitors, the islanders raise and export most of the native kentia palm seedlings to Holland. This has become a million-dollar business. These elegant palms grace fine hotels, airports, businesses and homes in Europe and throughout the world. The graceful palms abound on the island along with banyan trees — an open invitation to delightful shaded walks.

There are 17 accommodation properties to choose from. They range in capacity from four to 85 beds and vary from full board to self-catering to bed-and-breakfast. Some disabled facilities are available, and inquiries should be made when making reservations.

There are also several nice facilities for dining out, but a car would be required to reach these. And, in fact, you see few vehicles on the roads, as most visitors prefer to walk or bike. We found that walking the island was a treat to the senses, plus we enjoyed the bonus of a woodhen crossing our path seemingly oblivious to our presence.

On our visit in November ’03 we stayed at Pinetrees (Pinetrees Lord Howe Island, Travel Pty., Ltd., 72 Erskine St., Sydney, NSW 2000, Australia; tel. 0292626585, fax 0292626638, e-mail info@pinetrees.com.au), which is operated by fifth-generation islanders. This facility, the largest on the island, is designed for optimum privacy and space. Accommodations range from comfortable, motel-style units and verandas up to modern garden cottages. All units have refrigerators and tea/coffee-making facilities as well as hair dryers and beach towels.

At four nights minimum, package rates are, in the low season (June 1-Aug. 31), Aus$675-$950 (near US$495-$700) per person and, in high season (November and December), Aus$900-$1,625 per person. Both packages include all meals. The meals are very good and are served with warm, delicious, melt-in-your-mouth, homemade bread.

The English institution of filling the gap between luncheon and dinner with afternoon tea is a lovely pause in each day. Also, the bar is open before dinner and affords the opportunity to meet people from all over the world who have come in search of this idyllic Eden.

ARLENE J. GOODHEAD
La Jolla, CA