Accommodations Worldwide

Great Britain

Looking for a place to stay near London Heathrow Airport but don’t want the expense of an airport hotel? St. Giles Hotel Heathrow (Hounslow Rd., Feltham, Middlesex, London Heathrow, U.K. TW14 9AD; phone 44-20-88-177-000), a 3-star property, is about 15 minutes from the airport.

The staff was helpful during our stay in May ’04. The rooms were fair-sized (by London standards), with air-conditioning and TV plus bath en suite with a handheld-type shower. A hot breakfast was included in the price of $49.50 per person, or $99 for the two of us.

Parking was available. The train station is very nearby and takes you to Waterloo, which connects to the Underground.

— KAREN DéMARTELAERE, Chandler, AZ

Europe

The 2-star Hotel Carofftel (18, ave. des Gobelins, 75005 Paris, FRANCE; phone 33 01 42 17 47 47 or visit www.hotelcarofftelgobelins.com) is in a good location, about two blocks from the rue Muffetard, with the Métro only steps away.

Clean. Comfortable. The rooms are small but adequate. The rate for a double, without breakfast, was €76 ($92) per night. We stayed for a week in April ’05.

The hotel’s staff was very friendly, and English was not a problem.

• In Provence, we stayed a week at a B&B outside of Avignon called Le Moulin de Souchieres (279 route de Saint Albergaty – 84320 Entraigues-sur-la-Sorgue, France; phone/fax 33 0 490 480 020 or visit www.lemoulindesouchieres.com).

Formerly an old paper mill built in 1812, it’s a lovely property that includes a pool and a nice garden. It’s been given three ears of corn (like star ratings) by the Gîtes de France.

The rate for a double room with private bath and breakfast was €64 ($78) per night in low season.

The owners are a terrific young couple who speak French, English, Dutch and German.

— LINDA BOERNER, Tampa, FL

The hotel La Roseraie (La Wantzenau, FRANCE; phone 33-3-88-96-63-44 or fax 33-3-88-96-64-95), with the restaurant Le Jardin Secret, is located six kilometers south of Strasbourg. In a peaceful location on the edge of a pretty little town, it’s across from the railroad station but extremely quiet nonetheless.

The hotel is delightful and was fully modernized a few years ago. Owned and operated by M/M Oberle. The rate in March ’04 was €55 ($73) per night for a double, with breakfast €6.50.

Dinner at their outstanding restaurant cost approximately €80 ($106) for two, including wine, dessert, etc.

The prices given do not include tax, which was about 20% for meals and 5% on rooms.

— RAY & MARY HANSEN, Kirkland, WA

Our letter about the pension Hotel Stadthalle in Vienna, AUSTRIA, was printed in the June ’05 issue, page 56. We welcomed readers with questions on the hotel or Vienna to contact us, but an incorrect e-mail address was printed. You may reach us at eldrbrry@geneseeit.com.

— CHERIE & JIM SCUDDER, East Bethany, NY

When my wife and I took European delivery of our BMW, we used the opportunity to tour the Romantic Road in GERMANY in the off-season. We picked up the car at the BMW plant in Munich in February ’04 and toured at a leisurely pace for 10 days.

February’s weather isn’t ideal, but 25°-50°F is a good trade for empty hotels and no need for reservations. The popular restaurants were busy but could seat us without a wait. At least half of the tourist attractions were open with no crowds.

• One of the hotels we particularly enjoyed was Hotel am Congress Centrum (Pleichertorstrasse 26, 97070 Würzburg; phone 0931 50244 or visit www.hotel-am-congress-centrum.de). At €101 ($122), including a huge buffet breakfast and covered parking, it was a bargain.

• The Weinstuben Juliusspital (Julius Promenade 19, 97070 Würzburg; phone 0931 54080-28) is a delightful wine bar and restaurant. We paid €28 ($34) for a fine dinner, wine and tip. We shared a table with a delightful German couple.

• We spent two nights at The Burg Hotel (Klostergasse 1-3, 91541 Rothenburg ob der Tauber; phone 09861-94890 or visit www. romanticroad.com/burghotel). Built into the city wall, it’s an old-fashioned timber house with all-modern features. It has a fantastic view of the Tauber River valley. Our off-season rate of €190 ($230) for two nights included parking and a large buffet breakfast with eggs cooked to order.

• The owner sent us to have dinner at the “English Conversation Table” at Mario’s Altafransche Weinstube. Locals meet there at a table for 12 on Wednesday evenings and for three hours speak English. The group was very gracious and kind to us. The bill for four large glasses of wine and two excellent dinners was €27 ($33).

If you want to really enjoy the Romantic Road, February is the time to go.

— GENE SCHWANDT, Hilton Head Island, SC

We took advantage of an “open jaw” round trip (fly into one city and out of another) offered by Delta to fly into Berlin and out of Prague in October ’04. In between, we stopped at Dresden for three days (sorry, no recommendation there).

• In Berlin, we stayed in one of the one-bedroom apartments managed by Dr. Louisa Schnitzer (Belziger Str. 21, 10823 Berlin, GERMANY; phone/fax +49/30 44 355 940) for $490 for the week. It was within walking distance of the center of town and very near John F. Kennedy Platz.

• We took the train to Prague and stayed at the Prague City Pension (Stitneho 13, Prague 3, CZECH REPUBLIC; phone +420 608 745 847, e-mail info@euroholiday.cz or visit www.euroholiday.cz/hotels/ pension-prague-city.html). $70 a day with breakfast. It was an easy walk from there to the main museum and town center.

— CHARLES SEVERS, Louisville, KY

A train-scheduling misunderstanding left us stranded at the Nadrazi-Holesovice station in Prague, CZECH REPUBLIC, Nov. 30, ’04. A station attendant made a few calls and found us a hotel within walking distance.

Hotel Henry (Papirny 11, Prague 7; e-mail hotel-henry@prague-hotel.ws or visit www.prague-hotel.ws/prague-hotel-henry.asp) is a small, 22-room, typical family-run operation.

Prices ranged from $70 to $102, depending on the season, for a double with breakfast. The rooms have color TV, phone, shower and toilet. They accept Visa and MasterCard.

The hotel has a good, Czech-cuisine restaurant with reasonable prices. We paid $18 for dinner for two with wine.

— ELI EISENHARD & JACKIE BERGY, Boyertown, PA

The following appraisals are the result of a trip to PORTUGAL in June ’03. (Note: all prices are up to date for 2005.)

• York House Hotel (Rua das Janelas Verdes 32, 1200 Lisbon, Portugal; phone 213 962 435, fax 213 972 793 or e-mail yorkhouse@mail.telepac.pt or yorkhouse@ila-chateau.com).

This hotel is a classic European hotel from another era and most comfortable. It’s an atmospheric place — lots of antiques and interesting furnishings. The staff was friendly and helpful.

A potential disadvantage is the large number of steps between the lobby and the street and again between the lobby and your room. Porters were generally available.

Prices run from €105 ($127) for a single, Sunday-Wednesday, to €250 ($303) for a double deluxe on the weekend.

Breakfast was €12 without champagne or port or €14 with. Breakfasts were excellent, and the bar was well stocked and well run.

The location is a bit out of the way in Lapa, a district in Lisbon, but it’s fairly near to electric trams and buses and about a 25-minute walk from Cais do Sodre train station. Parking can be a problem.

• Pousada Rainha Santa Isabel (Largo de Dom Diniz, 7100 509 Estremoz, Portugal; phone 268 332 075, fax 268 332 079 or visit www.pousadas.pt). The location is unforgettable. A medieval castle with a beautiful garden and pool, the hotel is impressive in appearance, to say the least.

A double room ranges from €165 to €220 night ($200-$255), depending on time of year.

There may be discounts for seniors, depending on the day of the week.

The staff was generally friendly during our visit, but the restaurant service was at times a problem. Breakfasts (included in the rates) were excellent, but some guests complained that dinners arrived cold after long waits.

We had the hubcaps of our rental car stolen in front of this hotel. There were security cameras but not in all parts of the square in front of the hotel; some guests had been advised to park within camera range, but we were not. The town and surroundings are a real attraction.

• Just across the square from the pousada is a first-rate restaurant, São Rosas (Largo de Dom Diniz 11; phone 268 333 345). They have regional specialties and top service.

• Hotel Quinta do Sol (Rua Dr. Pita 6, 9000-089 Funchal, Madeira Island, Portugal; phone 291 707 010, fax 291 766 287 or visit www. enotel.com).

This hotel is not really well placed; it is a bit away from the Lido, the popular resort area in Madeira. The entrance of the hotel was not a pleasant sight, but the rooms were fine. €160-€232 ($194-$281).

The hotel is old, and service was marginal during our trip. For example, our air-conditioner did not work for four days, and it was needed because we couldn’t leave windows open at night due to mosquitoes and road noise. Reporting the problem did no good; we were just told, “That is strange.” One desk clerk told us that the complaint would be recorded in the service book and that that was all he could do. Another clerk said, “This is the weekend.”

Bar service was fine, and breakfast (included) was okay but very repetitive.

One minus, for us, was that the hotel seemed to be booked mainly by large package-tour groups of seniors.

Madeira is a great destination, one of the most beautiful islands anywhere.

• Pousada de Monsanto (Rua de Capela 1, 6060-091 Monsanto, Portugal; phone 277-314-471, fax 277-314-481 or visit www.pousadas.pt). Like many pousadas in Portugal, this one is magnificently placed. It is located near the top of a hilltop medieval village that has been called the “most Portuguese” of all villages in the country. The town is stunning and not to be missed.

The pousada itself is built in and on boulders on a very narrow street that winds around the village. Parking is a problem; there is a small square about a block away, but there were few parking places there and a bus could come and block all the spots.

The pousada is a steep walk from the square, and there was no porter to help with luggage. The lobby is at the street level and there are a lot of stairs to the first floor, but thereafter there is an elevator to the guest rooms. Prices run €90-€140 ($110-$170), depending on time of year.

The staff seemed helpful, but there were so few staff during our visit, it was hard to find anyone to help with bags or any problem or the operation of the restaurant or bar (which seemed to be rarely open).

The restaurant and public areas were well appointed, but service everywhere was either slow or hard to find. Breakfast consisted of yogurt, ham, cheese and rolls, but on some mornings our breakfast was simply laid out at a table with no staff around. With one person operating the restaurant, dinner was a long haul. There was no other restaurant in town or within any reasonable driving distance.

Be prepared for a lot of walking at this pousada — and fantastic views!

• Casa de São Tiago do Castelo (Postal Code 2510-106, Largo de São Tiago, Óbidos, Portugal; phone/fax +351 262 959 587) is in an excellent location inside the castle walls of Óbidos, a walled medieval town. The Old Town is directly outside the door.

This bed-and-breakfast inn was run by several friendly ladies who really took care of us during our stay. If we wanted a cool drink or more for breakfast, they were happy to comply. Language could be a minor problem; some staff spoke perfect French, and some, perfect English, but all spoke perfect Portuguese! Spanish was generally understood.

The inn was furnished with many antiques and odd items. Rooms were large and airy, and all had baths. €80 ($90) per night for a double, breakfast included.

Parking could be a bit of a problem, but there was usually a space nearby. A magnetic card was needed to enter the old castle walls with a car; the innkeepers lent one to us to enter. Driving in the Old Town is an experience in itself.

• The B&B is immediately adjacent to Pousada do Castelo (one of the Pousadas of Portugal), which has only eight rooms. €300 ($363) for a superior room during high season.

— T. HEYDT, Scottsdale, AZ

For several years my wife and I have visited the Vallée d’Aosta for early summer hiking in northwestern ITALY’s Gran Paradiso National Park. In June, the crowds are small, prices less, rifugios (shelters) open and reservations not necessary.

We particularly want to recommend the Hotel Ondezana (Fraz. Lillaz, 95, 11012 Cogne [A0], Italy; phone/fax [0165] 74248 or phone 74698, e-mail info@hotelondezana.net or visit www.hotelondezana.net), where we stayed during the first weekend in July ’04.

The hotel has great views, superb food and an English-speaking manager. It’s €47 ($61) per person for half-pension but higher in July (€57, or $74) and August (€70, or $91).

Lillaz is a great trailhead (starting point) for variable day hikes in the surrounding Alps high country.

— BRICE HARRIS, Los Angeles, CA

My wife and I stayed at the Best Western Pythagorion Hotel (28 Agiou Konstandinou Str., Athens, GREECE, GR-10437; phone 30 210 5242811-14, fax 30210 5245581 or visit www.bestwestern.com), Feb. 17-22, ’05. It is in the commercial section just a few blocks from Omonia Square and the metro station.

The concierge was extremely pleasant and helpful. The Internet rate for a room for two with two beds (actually, we had two single beds pushed together) was €70 ($90) per night. The breakfast buffet was included in the price. The room had a safe and TV (the only English-speaking channel was CNN).

I highly recommended this hotel.

— GEORGE LAUSCHER, Pocono Summit, PA

Latin America

I can’t recommend the Country Inn & Suites by Carlson (Ave. Miguel Brostella, 231/2B Norte, El Dorado, Panama City, PANAMA; phone 507-236-6444 or 507-300-3700 or e-mail country.pma@unesa.com).

There was a certain architectural awkwardness about the building which made it feel less like hospitality and more like housing. And the level of maintenance in the bathrooms was far below what we have in the U.S.

Maids talked and laughed in the elevator and stair lobby outside our door early each morning, their voices echoing off the hard surfaces. (There is no carpeting in these common areas since they are under roof but open to the weather and are not air-conditioned.)

Our room cost $60 a day, including tax and a decent breakfast. (April ’05)

I definitely consider this hotel a “local experience.” The in-house restaurant, however, is TGI Friday’s.

— JIM SIMPSON, Wilmington, DE

We took a great trip to Chile, Argentina and Uruguay in January-February ’05. The people were so friendly and helpful. We felt perfectly safe. Here are some of our recommendations.

• For some of our arrangements, we went through WOW Argentina (Av. Santa Fe 882, 12F C1059ABP, Buenos Aires, ARGENTINA; phone +54 11 52 39 30 19, fax 54 11 52 39 17 14 or visit www.wowargentina. com.ar). They could not have been any better. They were a pleasure to deal with.

Note: for all hotels mentioned, breakfast and taxes are included in the price. The breakfasts were quite adequate or better. All accommodations were in excellent locations.

• Orly Hotel (Pedro de Valdivia 027, Providencia, Santiago, CHILE; phone 56 2 231 8947 or visit www.chile-travel.com/orly-hotel- santiago). This is a delightful small hotel located in the Providencia area of the city. It is within a couple of blocks of Santiago’s wonderful subway. The Orly cost $85 a night.

• In Buenos Aires we stayed, as recommended by WOW, at the Argenta Tower Hotel (Juncal 868, C1062ABF, Buenos Aires, Argentina; phone 54 11 4325 4100, fax 54 11 4326 7090 or visit www.argenta-tower.com.ar). At about $75 a night, this hotel was just at the edge of the Recoleta area.

• Colonia del Sacramento is a delightful, quaint small city in URUGUAY just across the river from Buenos Aires. It is well worth a day. We stayed in Hotel La Misión (Misiones de Los Tapes 171, Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay; phone 00598 52 26767 or 28472 or visit www.lamisionhotel.com). This small hotel in the center of town cost $46 a night.

• In Montevideo we were at the Holiday Inn (Colonia #823, Montevideo, 11100, Uruguay; phone 00598 2 902 0001, fax 00598 2 902 1242 or visit www.holidayinn.com.uy). It is within a block of the casino and the main plaza. $72 nightly.

• Iguazú Falls is certainly worth the trip. We stayed in the Sheraton Internacional Iguazú Resort (Parque Nacional Iguazú, Iguazú 3370, Argentina; phone 54 3757 491800, fax 54 3757 491848 or e-mail reserves@iguazu.sheraton.com. ar), which is on the Argentina side and the only hotel within the park. It was about $125 a night on the garden side of the hotel and about $150 or so on the falls side and probably worth it.

We would be happy to answer any questions e-mailed to suebillinokc@sbcglobal.net.

— SUE HOOD, Oklahoma City, OK