Lidiko Lodge and Isibindi Lodge in South Africa

For the past three years, we have explored the REPUBLIC OF SOUTH AFRICA during its so-called “secret season” of October. We have been awed by most all of the country’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites and even more impressed by the spirit and graciousness of the South African people.

The South African economy remains hopeful and dynamic, even though the unemployment rate is growing among the poorest of the nation’s population. Crime and social problems are fueled by a constant stream of immigrants from some of the world’s poorest nations that border South Africa, and the scourge of HIV is a source of great pain to all of Africa.

These conditions won’t directly impact the average tourist (we felt safe throughout the country by avoiding urban crime pockets just as we do in the U.S.). However, those who fall in love with South Africa and its people, as we have, will leave there motivated to participate in one of the many international relief efforts currently ongoing.

Since we had previously concentrated our South African travel on some of the more common tourist opportunities, such as game parks and the wine country, we took the time on our third trip, in October ’05, to see some of the other locations. Among them were St. Lucia National Park, the Drakensberg Mountains and the Zulu Battlefields.

• In order to see the Zulu culture, we stayed at Isibindi Lodge (Tredinnock Farm, Box 1593, Eshowe, South Africa; phone +27 [0] 35 474 1473, fax 1490 or visit www.isibindi africa.co.za). We enjoyed beautiful accommodations, with access to knowledgeable guides who described the Zulu Wars from both the British and Zulu perspectives. (2006 rack rates are R1,075 [$176] per person in high season and R945 [$156], low season; Zulu Battlefield Tours cost R430-R400.)

• In St. Lucia, an easy 3-hour drive from Durban, we were fortunate to find Lidiko Lodge (phone/fax +27 [35] 590-1581 or e-mail lidiko@wetlands.co.za), a charming bed-and-breakfast owned by a former South African judge and her husband, a former defense attorney and professor of criminal law.

This adventuresome couple decided, mid-life, on a dramatic shift in their lifestyle, and their fortunate guests leave St. Lucia feeling grateful for their decision. The Zulu king and his entourage recently stayed in the lodge.

The rooms are modern, well appointed and spotless. We paid $95 per person per night. (2006 rates are shown as R350-R450 [$57-$74] per person.) A delightful full breakfast is served each morning, and wine and cheese, along with great conversation, are available each evening. The hosts, Dick and Lyzette, are a wealth of information on St. Lucia in particular and South Africa in general.

The lodge is within walking distance of a good selection of restaurants and tourist offices.

And the wetlands are richly deserving of their World Heritage designation and hold a fascinating variety of plant, bird and animal life.

• We owe our original discovery of this beautiful country to Nadia Eckhart, who owns the travel company Africa Easy (2030 Dexter Ave. N. #223, Seattle, WA 98109; phone 800/617-2319 or visit www.africa easy.com). Nadia, a native South African now living in the U.S., was the tour leader for our first trip to the country, and we are grateful to her for her delightful introduction. For any first-time traveler to South Africa who prefers an organized tour, we recommend Nadia.

MARILYN & PAUL WHISENAND

San Clemente, CA