Malaysia's Casa Del Mar hotel

If you’re looking for peace on Earth, consider the Casa Del Mar (Jalan Pantai Cenang, Mukim Kedawang, Langkawi 07000, Kedah Darul Aman, MALAYSIA; phone [60] [4] 955 2388, fax 955 2228, www.casadelmar-langkawi).

This modest, 2-story hotel (about 30 rooms) appears unassuming at first from the street. We found it by accident when walking along Cenang Beach on the island of Langkawi (northwestern Malaysia).

The terra-cotta building conveys a simple elegance, from the small, Mediterranean lobby to the panoramic view of the Andaman Sea. In February ’07 we paid $200 per night for our 2-night stay — more than we wanted to, but I have experienced no lovelier place on Earth.

Upon check-in, papaya, peanuts and fresh coffee were delivered to our room, which was aromatic with the scents of cinnamon soap and clay pots of fragranced shampoo, lotion and oil.

The bed and bathroom were spacious and the sheets soft; I fell asleep to the sound of the fan overhead. Very early the next morning, I heard a sound like Christmas ornaments tinkling in the breeze; it was fish falling from an elderly fisherman’s net.

The lodging rate included a full breakfast with ample Continental, American and Malay selections, the latter largely rice-based. The hotel also gave us two free dinners (average price about $15).

Although our travel books suggested a few restaurants and sights on the island, we felt no desire to leave our haven. We had tried a few meals on the street earlier in the week, but the Casa Del Mar met all our needs. Occasionally, we walked to an Internet place but found the street shabby and unremarkable, with minimal shopping; we quickly returned to “Shangri-la.”

The pool setting is intimate. We spent our days luxuriating under the swaying coconut palms. There was no competition for the lounge chairs. We read the daily newspaper and newsletter provided or books from the library, whose shelves had choices in many languages. The cable TV in our room did receive English channels.

We learned that a loyal, largely European clientele returns year after year, with some guests arriving from Singapore and other parts of Southeast Asia. We were the only Americans. The only noise we heard was the nightly piano playing, mostly American hits.

The staff made a point of attending to every guest. One employee circulated asking for ideas for improvement. After we left, he e-mailed us, inviting us back.

The Casa Del Mar is located away from the big international hotels elsewhere on the island. We don’t recommend this property for children, or even teenagers, who like more action.

The hotel can arrange numerous sightseeing tours. It also has a spa, which I didn’t try.

We arrived on Langkawi by ferry from Penang island, a 2½-hour ride that cost $6 per person; the taxi to Cenang Beach cost about $8.

Langkawi International Airport is 10 minutes from the hotel, with flights from several Southeast Asian countries. We paid $17 per person for a shuttle to the airport on the day we left.

KIM EDWARDS

Sacramento, CA