Horseback riding at Domaine du Soleil
On March 12, ’03, my three sisters-in-law and I began a trip that had been in the making for over two years. We flew to southern France, via Paris, for one week of horseback riding at Domaine du Soleil (Route de Villesque, 30610 Sauve, France; phone 0033-0466804515, cell phone 06-82658301 or e-mail barbara.gahn@wanadoo.fr), a large estate on 70 acres of land and home to horses, goats, pigs, chickens, five dogs and one burro. Each of us varied in our riding skills but shared a common willingness to do our best, not a small thing for four women in their 50s.
We began our journey from Milwaukee, Wisconsin, and flew Delta via Atlanta, arriving in Paris at 8:30 a.m. (Round-trip airfare cost $421 each.) We had prepaid round-trip tickets on the TGV (fast train) from Paris to Nimes ($97 each). The train was scheduled to depart the Gare de Lyon at 10:55. Our plane was a half hour late arriving, and we were unaware that it was a 40-minute cab ride to Gare de Lyon.
We were to retrieve the prepurchased tickets from any ticket machine by using the same purchasing credit card along with a security code. Our first major problem was that none of the ticket machines at the airport would accept credit cards. None of us was fluent in French, so with time running short we took a cab to the train station. We had just enough time to redeem our tickets at the counter and run to catch the train.
We each had a wheeled carry-on plus one large bag, and this streamlined our mode of travel. Each of us packed riding boots, pants and a helmet (highly recommended) in addition to our clothing. Without the helmet, a waiver would have been required. We each bought travel insurance since threats of war loomed.
On the train, we relaxed and had three hours to enjoy the countryside. Arriving on time in Nimes, we had reserved an Alamo rental car for one week for $256. (Transportation to and from the estate from Nimes was also available by prior arrangement for $40 one way for two persons.) We made the 40-minute drive northwest into the mountainous area to the town of Sauve and followed the directions to Domaine du Soleil.
Upon arrival, we were greeted by the three owners: Jochen Isler, his wife, Carin, and Barbara Galin, plus their helper Katya. They all spoke English, French, Swiss and German. Jochen gave us the grand tour and then opened bottles of wine to toast our arrival. Since it was early in the season, we were the only guests for the week.
The large stone structure which housed both guests and owners sprawled and rambled with various rooms and apartments. We paired up and chose two rooms on the second floor. My shared room with private bath slept two, and the others paired in an adjacent room that slept three with bath and TV. Jochen uniquely designed the showers so that hot water cascades over a rock ledge like a natural waterfall. Rooms were heated and beds were comfortable.
We ate breakfast each morning at 9. The food throughout the week was outstanding. Breakfast consisted of cereals, yogurt, cold meats, cheeses, three types of fresh bread, butter, fruit, jams and eggs. We discussed our plans for the day during this meal.
After each being assigned our own horse, we retrieved them from the fields, cleaned their hooves and brushed, bridled and saddled them. We rode daily for up to three hours through vineyards, paths, mountains and hills. After riding, we cleaned the horses and the tack. Great care was taken with every animal on the estate.
Lunch consisted of sandwiches, yogurt and fruit. Generally, we ate our lunch poolside and took naps lounging in the 70-degree sun. On two occasions we drove to the Mediterranean towns of Le-Grau-du-Roi, Aigues-Mortes and Sète, where we lunched overlooking the sea and poked around the gift shops. Another afternoon we visited a local winery and tasted many wonderful wines. Local wines started at about $6 per bottle, and we could not help but bring some back to the estate and to the U.S. as well.
In the evening, we met at about
6:30 in the bar area for wine, beer or cocktails and toasted another wonderful day. (Cost was extra for drinks.) Dinner was served at 7:30. The most delightful surprise of the trip was the quality of the meals prepared by Carin.
We ate and drank leisurely. Lively discussions often carried the meal into three hours. Jochen, a self-taught musician, entertained us after one meal with American songs played on his guitar and electric piano.
We had been there four days when threats of war with Iraq turned into a reality. We felt safe in the south of France and continued to enjoy our stay. We had prepaid for a hotel in Paris for the last weekend of our trip, but anti-American rioting was starting to concern us.
On the morning of our departure Jochen urged us not to go to Paris under any circumstances. He had seen on TV that rioters opposing U.S. involvement in the war were destroying American icons such as McDonald’s and American corporate buildings, and he felt we would not be safe there. In addition, vials of poison were found in TGV stations earlier that week. He insisted that we stay on his estate free of charge until we could safely exit France. We finally agreed with him.
He drove two of our group to Montpellier (40 miles away) to try to reschedule our prebooked tickets with Delta. The Air France ticket agent was sympathetic and pulled out all stops to handle our return flight arrangements.
We stayed at Domaine du Soleil for two more days. On the third day at 4 a.m. Jochen drove us to Montpellier to catch our flight to Paris, from which we continued to Cleveland and Milwaukee. Saying good-bye was hard because Jochen, Carin, Barbara and Katya had become like family to us.
We were overwhelmed by the attention, caring, patience and concern for our safety by our hosts at Domaine du Soleil. We are already planning to return next year, same time.
They have room for a maximum of 14 guests. I think they will have a full house in March ’04. The price for our stay on the estate was $700 per person for room, board and riding. Only drinks were extra.
I would be happy to respond to inquiries via my e-mail, dianepoolcue@centurytel.net.
Diane Schauss
Boulder Junction, WI