Accommodations Worldwide

Europe

Les Gains bed-and-breakfast (home of Diana and Kit Wordsworth, 61310 Survie, Exmes, Normandy, FRANCE; phone 0033 [0] 2 33 36 05 56, e-mail

christopher.wordsworth@libertysurf.fr or visit www.lesgains.tk) — located near Argentan in Normandy and set in the tranquil countryside of cider apple orchards and rolling green hills.

In a 17th-century farmhouse on a working sheep farm, Diana and Kit, a very warm English couple, provide three double bedrooms with facilities en suite plus wonderful home cooking. €50 ($60) per couple per night, with breakfast. Dinner cost €25 ($30) per person when we stayed there in June ’04.

Les Gains was a wonderful base for our five days in Normandy. Tours for a maximum of six people for one, two or five days can be arranged through the Wordsworths to sites of interest such as the Normandy D-Day beaches and cemeteries, the Bayeux Tapestry, Falaise Castle, Giverny, Mont-St-Michel and the port of Honfleur.

— M. GOODFELLOW, Carmichael, CA

Here are a few recommendations from a trip to GERMANY in April ’03.

• Hotel am Bachhaus (Marienstrasse 7, 99817 Eisenach, Germany; phone 011-36-91-20470, fax 011-36-91-2047133, e-mail ambachhaus@aol.com or visit www.hotel-am-bachhaus.de). This small hotel with a restaurant was in the center of town, near the Bachhaus, three minutes’ walk from Luther House.

We ate there twice, it was so good. They had great, reasonably priced food. Dinner plates with large helpings were about €10 ($12). Be sure to try the local specialty, thuringia kloose (dumplings).

The owner, Herr Schindler, was charming and acted as barman, waiter and receptionist. Little English was spoken, but it was not a problem. We did not stay there, but the rack rate for doubles was about €70 ($86).

• The Gastezimmer of Herr and Frau Ramdohr (Nussbaumweg 11, 06886 Lutherstadt, Wittenberg, Germany; phone 011-49-34-9161-0938) — a 10- to 12-minute walk or 5-minute drive from the center of town.

A marvelous private home, the villa has been in Herr Ramdohr’s family for generations. Highly recommended.

The amazing rate of €36 ($44) included a delicious breakfast. We had a huge room overlooking the garden. The large, beautifully tiled bath had a tub and separate shower. We shared it with two other rooms, but that was never a problem.

Frau Ramdohr didn’t speak English, but her husband liked to practice speaking it with his guests. The parking was in a safe, gated area.

• Kartoffelhaus (Schlosstrasse 2, Wittenberg; phone 011 03491-41-1200) — across from the Rathaus on Schlosstrasse. This was a great place to eat. It was loaded with atmosphere, and the prices were reasonable — abundant servings for about €5-€10.

The cobblestoned town of Wittenberg is well worth visiting. There are many Luther-related museums and buildings; the church on whose door he hung his thesis is right across from the tourist office.

• On the recommendation of an ITN reader (July ’01, pg. 61), we tried Gasthaus Krombach (Meinekestrasse 4 [off the Ku’damm], Berlin, Germany; phone 011 49 30-881-8602). It’s an easy walk from Zoo Station.

It’s frequented by locals — not a tourist trap. We ate there twice. It has marvelous German food, with large portions and reasonable prices. Try the stuffed cabbage.

When we were there, Siegfried Hasler, a waiter, spoke excellent English and was very helpful. He even went next door to a café (also owned by the Gasthaus) to bring me a larger selection of desserts. That’s service!

• Kemwel Rental Car (39 Commercial St., Portland, ME 04102; phone 800/678-0678 or visit www.kemwel.com).

I rented a car from this company for the first time and was very pleased. For a rental from April 10 to May 4, ’03, their rate of $455 including tax was better than that of either AutoEurope or European Car Rentals.

We picked up the car in Aachen and were supposed to return it in Berlin but decided to turn it in a few days early in Potsdam. Kemwell returned the difference when we returned to the U.S. They contract in Germany with Europcar.

— MAUREEN ANSTEAD, Menlo Park, CA

We stayed for a week in an agriturismo, the Foresteria Il Giardino di Fontarronco (phone 011-039-0575-846044, fax 011-039-0575-846045, e-mail info@foresteria.it or visit www.foresteria.it), near Arezzo, Tuscany, ITALY, in October ’04. We chose it based on a reader’s letter (Nov. ’03, pg. 54).

Forty kilometers from Siena and 60 kilometers from Florence, the converted 18th-century villa and outbuilding (converted into 10 apartments) are in an orchard setting with lovely grounds and a pool.

Our accommodation was a 3-story apartment. The first floor had a basic kitchen (toaster oven) and a living room with table, chairs, love seat and TV but few amenities. On the second floor was a bedroom and bath, and above that was a sleeping loft for a third person. We paid about $800 for the week, off-season.

They served one or two meals on the premises once or twice a week, bringing in a chef when they were assured of having 10 diners. We had one meal there and it was the best we had on our trip — four or five courses, with wine, for €89 ($118).

The best thing was Francesco, the owner. He was on hand every day, all day, and was wonderful in helping to plan our days. He had touring suggestions and restaurant recommendations. He was helpful when we wanted to spend a day in Florence, giving us train schedules and calling ahead for reservations for the Ufizzi, Accademia and Pitti Palace. When we left Tuscany for the Amalfi Coast, Francesco called our next hotels to assure us of good directions.

— LIBBY ECKERT, Oakton, VA

From a 3-week visit to TURKEY in May ’04, here are a few more noteworthy hotels (see Jan. ’05, pg. 44).

• Hotel Elvan (Istiklal Caddesi Barbaros Hayrettin Sok 11, Ürgüp, Turkey; phone ++90 0384/341 4191 or e-mail hotelelvan@superonline.

com).

Although it is not one of the cave hotels in the area, the Elvan had very cool rooms with curved ceilings reminiscent of a cave. The room we had was basic, clean and inexpensive at $25 for two, including the traditional Turkish breakfast. The owners were friendly and picked us up at the bus station.

Internet access was available a 5-minute walk away.

• Day tours were available from nearby Yuki Tour (phone ++90 384 341 61 25 or visit www.yukitour. com). A private tour for two from 9 a.m. to 4 with driver and English-speaking guide was available for $140 per day, including entrance fees and lunch. Group tours were available for less.

• Ridvan Otel (Cumhuriyet Meydani, No.11, 35930 Çesme, Turkey; phone ++90 232/712 6336 or e-mail ridvanotel@superonline.com).

Semibudget hotel right on the water and opposite a 14th-century Genoese castle on the hill. At $27 for a single, the clean, basic room had a balcony from which to see both water and castle. A basic traditional Turkish breakfast was included.

• Kalyon Hotel (Kennedy Highway, 34400 Sultanahmet, Istanbul, Turkey; phone ++90 212/517 4400, fax ++90 212/638 1111 or e-mail kalyon@kalyon.com).

This is an expensive hotel across the street from the Sea of Marmara and downhill (about a 15- to 20-minute walk) from the Blue Mosque, Topkapi and Aya Sofya. Excellent front desk services with English spoken well.

A suite with a terrific bathroom, including robes, cost $200 through a broker. Just a room would have been fine. Marvelous buffet breakfast.

— PAT MINAMI, Rockville, MD

Latin America

My husband and I took our first trip to South America in July ’04. We decided on Buenos Aires, ARGENTINA, for our first experience and, at the recommendation of two ITN readers, contacted Juan and Claudia at the B&B Olleros 3000* (C1426CSF Buenos Aires; phone +54 11 4554-7269, e-mail info@olleros3000.com.ar or visit www.olleros3000.com.ar).

What a wonderful decision it turned out to be. Not only is the B&B lovely, but Juan and Claudia go out of their way to provide all the help possible to make your stay enjoyable and carefree. Many times they went above and beyond what one would expect.

The large suite with bath was only $40 per night. The B&B is lovely and comfortable. It does have a spiral staircase, which could limit someone with physical problems.

Olleros 3000 is located in a quiet, residential, up-and-coming area, which makes for a very nice, nontouristy stay. Buenos Aires is a very large city, so plan to stay at least a week!

— GLYNN & JUDY HODGES, Denton, MD

*[B&B Olleros 3000 has closed. See this item in the May 2014 Boarding Pass column. —Editor]