Grande Mariner to Belize & Guatemala

We took a cruise from Belize to the Barrier Reef and Guatemala and back, March 12-23, ’04, with American Canadian Caribbean Line (461 Water St., Warren, RI 02885; phone 800/556-7450 or visit www.accl-smallships.com). The cost ranged from only $2,455 to $2,985. It was for 11 nights, with the option of arriving one day early and “being there” rather than worrying about getting there in time for departure.

We flew on Continental Airlines from Los Angeles to Belize City (approximately $620 per person, round trip) two days early and stayed at the Radisson Fort George Hotel (phone 501/223-3333 or e-mail amin.dredge@radisson.com). This hotel is right across from where the ACCL ship docks at the end of the pier. Rates were approximately $119 per night plus taxes.

The next day we rented a car and driver from a private party near the hotel. He took us in his Toyota for the day for approximately US$140 (Belizian $1 = US$2).

Belize was formerly known as British Honduras. It is approximately 180 miles long by 80 miles wide.

We went out to the Belize Zoo, comprised of ONLY the animals and birds from the jungles within the country’s boundaries, such as a harpy eagle and a tree-climbing fox.

Our next stop was a butterfly farm. I photograph everything that moves (and most things that don’t), and, unfortunately, the present “crop” was not as beautiful as I wanted them to be, but such is life. However, the guide was terrific as he showed us the butterflies in various stages of their development.

Our driver stopped by some Maya ruins that were off the beaten track — very interesting. There was a “mock-up” of what the structures must have looked like centuries ago.

We returned to our hotel after visiting a small village and its local market.

The next day, around noon, we were permitted to board ACCL’s ship Grande Mariner. We checked out of the hotel and pulled our suitcases over to the end of the pier, handing them over to crew members.

We had signed up in advance to visit the zoo again as well as some Maya ruins, Xunantunich, outside of Belize City. A small ferry took us across a lazy river and then a van drove us up to the ruins. Xunantunich has a magnificent structure that rises 130 feet above the valley floor. It is indeed a healthy climb (especially for this senior+), but I made it almost to the top.

What is “great” about a small ship like the Grande Mariner is there are only 100 passengers maximum. This cruise had 84.

We sailed around the various small islands and were given the opportunity to snorkel. We were disappointed that we did not see more small, beautiful tropical fish, but supposedly a hurricane the year before had displaced many.

One of the pleasures of cruising on a small ship is “open seating” at meals. We got to meet many wonderful, well-traveled people (primarily seniors but, since there was snorkeling, also some of the “younger” generation). The food was excellent. They do their own baking on board, and they put on ice cream socials and barbecues.

On occasion, performers came on board to entertain us.

We proceeded down the Belize coastline visiting a few small cities that were off the beaten track but very interesting. A few days later we arrived at Livingstone, Guatemala (accessible only by water), then sailed up a jungle river, seeing many magnificent frigate birds plus pelicans by the dozens. There was a tour of an old Spanish fort built in 1641 where they stored gold before it was shipped back to the Old World.

We also visited an orphanage. It was in the jungle and had many volunteers from Canada and the U.S. Several hundred dollars were raised by the passengers to help buy supplies for them. It was a good experience.

Upon leaving Guatemala, we sailed back up the coast (the water was calm) to Belize City, where we disembarked. The cruise line provides taxi service to the airport for passengers who have requested it. Others can catch their own taxis; the cost is nominal.

Belize has come a long way in the promotion of tourism. There were three large cruise ships anchored offshore when we were there. I would point out that their passengers had to be tendered in from three to five miles out, while small ships like ours docked at the end of the pier.

Belize City has an interesting museum, local craft shops, etc. We were there during their “dry season,” but it did rain at times.

This was our fourth cruise with ACCL. It is a family-owned company. We have been on many, many cruises and have found that on ACCL cruises we have made lasting friendships due to the “small size” of their ships. The giant ocean liners may have more ambiance, but you need to take your own friends!

GORDON & CHARLOTTE
HENSPETER, Covina, CA