Casa La Pace in Ghivizzano

To celebrate our 20th wedding anniversary, my husband, Dan Holland, and I visited Tuscany, Oct. 25-Nov. 8, 2012. We stayed in the small village of Ghivizzano, north of Lucca, in the Serchio Valley between the Apuan Alps and the Apennines. 

Ghivizzano is an excellent home base. Close by is Barga, a city that has preserved its medieval ambiance and its narrow, winding streets. Bagni di Lucca has the spas. Castelnuovo has its famous fortress and provides excellent shopping. Lucca, a beautiful walled city with red tile roofs, is only 30 minutes away by train. Pisa is an hour’s train ride away. Florence and the Cinque Terre are within three hours (in opposite directions).

Our travel agent suggested we try Casa La Pace B&B (Loc. Camparlese 6, 55025 Ghivizzano [LU], Italy; phone +39 [0] 0583 739449), which was a short walk from the train station and within walking distance of several restaurants. It wasn’t crowded in November, but during peak season you should book well in advance. 

The 3-story, 18th-century home has been beautifully renovated, has all the modern conveniences and was kept spotlessly clean. Guests have access to a common breakfast area, library and den. 

The four guest rooms cost €75-€90 (near $98-$117) per night, including a full breakfast. We paid $120 for our third-story room with a gorgeous view of the medieval town on the hilltop. 

Best of all, the two hosts, Rusty Wyrick and Pepper Pepper (yes, that is his name), blew us away with their hospitality and daily assistance in planning our adventures. 

Upon our arrival at the train station in Ghivizzano, Rusty took our luggage to the B&B while Pepper walked us through the village, introducing us to shopkeepers, friends and even the mayor. He showed us how to purchase train and bus tickets, pointed out restaurants and explained the differences in the village’s three architectural and historical periods. (The fortified hilltop had medieval buildings, with 1700s-1900s below that and, in the valley, the modern housing and shops.) 

Rusty also provided guided tours. One we took was an introduction to Lucca ($70 per couple, including tickets for a 30-minute train trip from Ghivizzano). Over about four hours, he pointed out historical buildings, shared cultural insights and offered suggestions on what to do and where to eat and shop, then left us to explore on our own. 

It was so interesting to see the city from his point of view that we asked him to share his perspective of Florence. The price of $190 per couple included train tickets, lunch and about four hours of walking and learning before he, again, left us to explore on our own.

We highly recommend Casa La Pace!

DEBORAH WALZ

Little Rock, AR