Impressions of West Africa

I traveled in Ghana, Togo and Benin on a 3-week trip in late November 2012 with a private art group. These countries, on the Gulf of Guinea, adjoining the Atlantic Ocean, are hot and humid most of the year, and it was in the high 80s with 80% humidity most of the time we were there. 

The crowded and fascinating markets and art galleries of Accra, Ghana’s capital, gave us a first look at what people sold. Most striking were the famous coffins of Ghana, which are in shapes such as fish, cocoa pods or Coke bottles. The designs and colors are limited only by the purchasers’ imaginations. 

We traveled along the coast to learn the heartbreaking slave-trading history of Elmina Castle, then went to the heart of the Ashanti Kingdom for an audience with the current king. This had been arranged beforehand and for a price, $230 per person, plus he wanted a case of South African red wine! 

It was worth it for the ability to be in a ruler’s compound and observe the scene: armed soldiers with mirrored sunglasses and people dressed in their best traditional clothing to see the king.  

We continued north in Ghana almost to the border of Burkina Faso, then looped back down to the coast. We went to a funeral, more a celebration than a mourning of the departed, and joined in the dancing, eliciting a delighted roar of laughter from onlookers.

This is the one trip where I regretted not taking a camcorder. The colorful dress, the singing and dancing, the funeral, voodoo ceremonies and the changing landscape from flat, watery green coastal fishing villages to the dry north, with beehive-like huts and sacred baobab trees, all were fascinating. 

The friendliness and curiosity of the people we met were worth the regular 4- to 6-hour bus rides. We visited schools and an orphanage, the latter a modest place with straw pallets for the children. We gave these institutions support and supplies. The children were obedient yet spunky, and we hoped they would have decent futures. 

As in all developing countries, the roads were long between towns, and we were ready for a drink and meal each evening when we arrived at our hotel. We often moved on after only one night in order to see as much as possible. Most travelers bore up well. 

As with much travel, the best stories can come out of what went wrong, as long as it was made good. 

I am grateful to have had the chance to visit that part of Africa, which is fascinating for its culture and people. 

Although my art group no longer makes this trip, I recently saw a similar itinerary on the website of Wilderness Travel (Berkeley, CA; 800/368-2794), where it was called “Tribal Ghana, Togo & Benin.”

MARIA DICHOV

San Francisco, CA