The secret's out: Spectacular scenery and Old World charm along the Dalmatian coast
by Jack Ogg; Houston, TX
(Part 3 of 3 on the Balkans)
Our drive from Split, Croatia, to Dubrovnik followed the coast — and what a treat it was! The memorable villages of Biela and Markarska had pebble beaches that curved around heavily forested coves. The water, varying from blue to aqua, was crystal clear.
We passed the islands of Brac and Hvar, which can be reached by ferry from Split and are heavily populated during the high season by Northern Europeans. Then we crossed the long valley near Metkovic; this is the region’s breadbasket, laden with vegetables, grain and fruit trees and containing three rivers that form several lakes.
Peljesac Peninsula
We reached the Peljesac Peninsula and drove through the neighboring towns of Ston and Mali Ston, home to the best seafood in Dalmatia. They do not allow any commercial or industrial development along that portion of the coast; hence, they have some of the best oysters in the world.
Connie and I stopped for lunch at the aptly named Bella Vista Restaurant, located two kilometers from Ston on the main highway. It’s situated on top of a mountain, looking down on the sea and the oyster beds.
The day was cloudless, the sea azure blue and motionless and the moment magic. The raw oysters were almost creamy tasting, similar to the Belons of Normandy but larger. Fried in a light cracker crust, they practically melted in our mouths. We washed them down with a local white wine ($3 a bottle). The meal cost $30 including wine.
Korcula
After the feast, we drove 50 kilometers out along the peninsula, through spectacular scenery of vineyards, coves and the Adriatic, to the town of Orebic, where we caught the ferry for the 15-minute ride to the isle of Korcula.
Often referred to as “Little Dubrovnik,” Korcula was reportedly the birthplace of Marco Polo. The town is entirely walled, sited atop a hill, and its narrow streets and ancient houses call out for strollers. At the highest point is St. Mark’s Cathedral, the interior of which boasts a Tintoretto (“Three Saints”) and Ivan Mestrovic’s “Pietá.” Another sculpture, “St. Blaise” by Mestrovic, and “Annunciation,” a painting attributed to Tintoretto, are near St. Anthony’s altar.
The Hotel Korcula had lost our reservation, so we stayed outside the city at the Liburna (Put od Luke bb). It was more spacious and a reasonable $60, but it lacked the Hotel Korcula’s character.
On to Dubrovnik
The next morning we retraced our journey back to the mainland and continued on to Dubrovnik. After turning in the rental car, we checked into the Pucic Palace (Ulica od Puca 1). It is the only hotel within the walled city, and it is a jewel.
Of Relais & Châteaux quality, the hotel is priced accordingly ($300-$350) but is worth every penny. It has been beautifully restored and contains an original staircase from the 14th century. The walls are covered in murals and paintings, and the ceilings are beamed.
The hotel’s Café Royal displays coats of arms of some of Dubrovnik’s original families. The cuisine was innovative, centering on the local seafood, and the chef will prepare any order requested. The wine list included Grc, the best wine in Croatia.
Our room was spacious and excellently appointed, with a balcony that overlooked one of the main city squares. A market was held in the square each morning from 6 to 10. Arising to the symphony of women selling fruits and vegetables and men hawking fresh fish and meats, we sipped coffee on the balcony in a cool morning breeze — a truly memorable experience.
After market hours, the square became a mixture of tables and chairs from the restaurants interspersed with the usual suspects of romping children and numerous pigeons. The outdoor café life lasted into the wee hours.
The soul of the city
Books could be, and have been, written about Dubrovnik — its history from an independent republic to its bombardment in the early 1990s by the Serbs; its magnificent walls; its streets of gleaming white stones, and its marvelous architecture — but words cannot do it justice.
There are some “must sees,” such as the Pile and Ploce gates whence you enter or leave the old city; the big Onofrio Fountain; the Franciscan monastery; St. Blaise’s Church on the main square; the Assumption of Our Lady Cathedral; Orlando’s Column; the Bell Tower; the Rector’s Palace, and the Sponza Palace. However, to capture the soul of Dubrovnik you must stroll its pedestrian-only streets, from the promenade of Stradun (or Placa) to the narrow alleyways that crisscross it.
The numerous shops, cafés and stairways give you the feeling of living in another era. Whether the noonday sun is reflecting off of the alabaster pavement or you are walking by moonlight, it is as if time is standing still. One cannot adequately describe Dubrovnik; you must see it to feel its magic.
Montenegro
After two glorious days of Dubrovnik and the Pucic Palace, we reluctantly traveled south to Montenegro, a component state of Serbia and Montenegro. We went with a car and driver arranged by Kathy Kutrubes of Kutrubes Travel and operated by Albturista. Our guide, Ilir Agolli, was extremely upbeat, spoke perfect English and was well versed in Albanian history.
Our first day out of Dubrovnik was spent driving the beautiful, almost undiscovered Montenegrin coast, where the mountains grow taller and the coves deepen into fjords.
Kotor
We stayed at Kotor at the Hotel Marija. Kotor, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, sits at the base of a high mountain with an ancient wall traversing it on one side and the beautiful Bay of Kotor on the other. The Marija was the town’s best hotel and was in the old walled city. It wasn’t the Pucic Palace, but the price was right ($65).
We again strolled the pedestrian thoroughfares and had marvelously fresh food. The next morning at breakfast, Connie kept asking for crispier bacon. Finally, to surmount the language barrier, she was invited back to the kitchen where she prepared it extra crisp, to the merriment of all.
Budva
We journeyed to the town of Budva, Montenegro’s largest resort area. In addition to a beautiful old walled city, it boasts a lengthy sandy beach and an unusual hotel casino built on a small, rocky island (Sveti Stefan) connected by a causeway.
The Sveti Stefan Hotel was not up to the standards of its glory days of the 1960s when it was favored by royalty and jetsetters, but it was still a lovely hotel in a dramatic setting. The cost was $180-$200 for a double with half board.
We drove inland through the mountains to the capital, Podgorica, formerly Titograd. A quick tour of the city showed it to be unremarkable, so we drove south to the Albanian border. Apparently, smuggling in fuel and arms must still be prevalent because we were stopped and inspected twice.
Albania
After crossing the Albanian border, we stopped at the town of Shkodra. It has always been a place of commercial importance, lying at the junction of two rivers on the shore of Lake Shkodra.
We visited the citadel of Rozafa, parts of which date from the second century B.C. We also stopped by the new civic theater to view the interior, staying to listen to several Albanian singers. We topped off the night with the best shrimp of the entire trip at a little restaurant on the lakeshore located seven or eight kilometers west of Shkodra.
Kruja
The next day we visited Kruja, a town built on a hilltop 610 meters high and featuring a citadel and museum. It contains defensive towers, ruins, buildings, mosques, churches and houses from different ages and in various states of preservation.
The museum is a tribute to Albania’s greatest hero, Skanderbeg, who united the feudal rulers and drove the Ottomans from the land. Ironically, the museum was built under the direction of the daughter of Enver Hoxha, who ruled Albania for almost 50 years, imposing the most militant, oppressive and brutal form of Communism on the people.
Under Hoxha, cars, motorbikes and even bicycles were forbidden to all but a few government cronies. Movement was restricted, and people were imprisoned for listening to Western radio or for giving children Western names. Despite all Hoxha’s cruelty, the Albanian people possess an unbelievable spirit that I believe will bring them back from Third World status.
Tirana
We visited Durres and then Tirana, Albania’s capital. Under a progressive mayor, Tirana has cleaned its river, paved its streets and painted its buildings, and construction is rampant. However, the airport still leaves a lot to be desired.
At the airport, we spoke with an elderly couple before our scheduled departure. The man, probably in his eighties, with few teeth left and dressed in hand-me-downs, summed up the indomitable spirit we had witnessed in Albania. He told Connie, with tears in his eyes and a wide grin on his face, “I’m going to Paris. Imagine, I’m finally going to Paris.”
Arranging a customized itinerary
Our 2½-week trip to the Balkans was arranged by Kutrubes Travel (328 Tremont St., Boston, MA 02116; phone 800/878-8566). I contacted Kathy Kutrubes after pulling her name from ITN. She patiently and expertly answered our questions and arranged a complete itinerary for the trip.
Being hands-on trip planners, my wife and I customized the itinerary to fit our schedule. Every accommodation that Kathy arranged or suggested was excellent, and there were no unpleasant surprises.
Kathy’s knowledge and connections in the Balkans should benefit her tremendously in the years ahead as Balkan tourism booms. The Europeans already know the Dalmatian coast and its reasonable prices. Americans are trickling into the Balkans now, but they will soon be beating the door down when word gets out that there isn’t a war and the coastal scenery, and the food, rivals that in Italy.
Thanks primarily to Kathy and her associates, we had one of our most memorable trips.