Plan your own Kruger safari for less

Kruger National Park in South Africa is a premier game park with thousands of animals living in the wild. It’s the size of our state of Massachusetts. Kruger is one of our very favorite places in the world. We have been there six times, most recently in September ’04.

Guided safaris have their own advantages, and some people prefer to stay in luxury lodging while on safari; however, the private luxury lodges around the perimeter of the park can run $500 to $800 and up per person per night. We have learned that it is fairly easy to plan our own safari and do it at a fraction of the cost. Kruger is ideal for such a “do it yourself, drive your own car” safari.

Kruger charges a fee of $20 per person per day. In addition, an overnight stay in a bungalow in the park typically costs 480 rand, or about $80, for two people. A bungalow with kitchen costs about $86.

Sixteen rest camps offer comfortable accommodation in the form of thatch-roofed bungalows, all equipped with beds and linens and private baths with showers. Of the eight entrance gates that give access to the park, three have rest camps attached to them. The larger rest camps have restaurant facilities and shops where fresh provisions, food and curios may be bought.

Reservations need to be made well in advance. This can be done online at www.krugerpark.co.za, where there are descriptions and pictures of the facilities.

All of the rest camps are fenced to keep the animals out and the people safe inside. You have to be inside the camp by 6 p.m. when the gate is closed. It is open again at 6 a.m. for early risers to go for a game drive before breakfast. You are not allowed out of your car, and the speed limit is 40 kilometers per hour on gravel roads and 50 kph on paved roads. The main roads are paved; the side roads leading to water holes and along the river are gravel.

All of the animals live in the wild. The only concession is the provision of water; windmills throughout the park pump it into water holes. As you drive slowly along the roads, you are likely to see a giraffe ambling alongside you, an elephant chomping on the leaves of a tree, a lion on the prowl, herds of zebras, hundreds of impala and many other animals.

The best time to visit Kruger is September-October — their spring, our fall.

Here is a suggested itinerary for a one-week safari in Kruger.

Day 1. Land in Johannesburg. (South African Airways has direct flights from the U.S. or you can do connecting flights through Europe.) Pick up a rental car at the airport. (Auto Europe [800/223-5555 or www.autoeurope.com] offers a compact car with manual transmission for, currently, $235 a week. South African Airways has combination specials that include the flight and a 7-day car rental.)

You will be tired, so plan to drive just five miles (driving is on the left) to the guest house African Dreams B&B (24 Eton Dr., Aston Manor, Kempton Park, Johannesburg, S.A.; phone +27 [0] 82 555-1614 or visit www.sa-venues.com/ga/africandreams.htm) in Kempton Park. Two can stay in a lovely double room for $100; this includes a full English breakfast for both people.

Day 2. Drive 400 kilometers (250 miles) on excellent roads to the Malelane gate of Kruger. There you can purchase a driving map of the park and also confirm your reservations. Watching for animals, proceed slowly 63 kilometers to Skukuza rest camp. The largest of the rest camps, it is like a small city, with a bank, airstrip, petrol stations, gift shop and a lovely big restaurant. Find your bungalow for your overnight stay.

Day 3. Using Skukuza as a base, drive around on the roads in this southern part of the park; the highest concentration of animals is here. Park at a water hole and watch the action. Enjoy lunch at another rest camp. Head back to Skukuza, where you might want to enjoy the evening buffet in the dining room, with soup, salad, a great variety of hot dishes (including lamb) and desserts, all for 100 rand ($17) plus tip. Tea and cookies are served on the veranda beside the Crocodile River.

Day 4. Drive north, sidetracking on some of the gravel roads along the river, 146 kilometers to Oliphants rest camp for your next overnight. There’s lots of game viewing, not only from your car but from a shaded observation platform overlooking the plains below.

Day 5. Drive farther north, stopping after 32 kilometers in Letaba to see the life-size elephant statue. The Elephant Museum features the tusks of the largest elephants that ever lived in Kruger. You’ll be impressed. There are over 12,000 elephants in the park, so you’re sure to see some of them in this area. Continue another 49 kilometers to Mopani, the newest rest camp, to bed down for the night.

Day 6. Take a morning game drive from Mopani to the Phalaborwa gate to exit Kruger on the west side. Drive a short distance to Blyde River Canyon — very picturesque with waterfalls, overlooks and breathtaking mountain scenery plus roadside souvenir stands. Stay overnight in The Woodsman B&B in Sabie ($75 per couple, with breakfast).

Day 7. Return to the Johannesburg area, on your way stopping in Dullstroom at Harrie’s Pancakes for an eating experience you’ll never forget. For $7 you get two pancakes, each folded in half with a delicious filling. One could be a “savory,” such as chicken and mushrooms with cheese sauce and apple garnish; the other could be filled with fruit or with ice cream sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar. Delicious!

EMILY MOORE

Greenville, IL