Week in Nicaragua

This item appears on page 36 of the February 2010 issue.

After reading an article in the USA Today travel section in September ’07 about Nicaragua’s growth in tourism, we started making plans to travel there in mid-September ’08.

Following the violent revolution in the ’70s, many people simply forgot about Nicaragua as a travel destination. Slowly, that is changing. Our seven-day trip proved to be worth every second.

Pool at Pelican Eyes resort. Photo: Arritt

Due to a late arrival and early return departure, we elected to stay our first and last nights at the Camino Real Hotel (phone 505 255 5901, www.caminoreal.com.ni), near the Managua Airport. Complimentary transfers are provided by the hotel, and we were most impressed by the timely pickup — always appreciated after a long day of travel.

We had arranged a round-trip transfer from Managua to the Pacific coastal village of San Juan del Sur with Adelante Express (phone +[505] 8850 6070 or 8850 6064, www.adelanteexpress.com). The 2½-hour trip gave us a chance to see the lush green countryside with its many small villages. Signs along the way pointed to the volcano Masaya, one of the many volcanoes that dot the country.

We arrived in San Juan del Sur by mid-afternoon and checked into our hotel for the next five days, Pietras y Olas (Pelican Eyes) (from the US, call 866/350-0555, www.piedrasyolas.com). We were not disappointed.

The resort sits high on a hill with a superb view of the village and coast. Each room is a separate cabina, some with small living rooms and kitchens. Our cabina was larger than many hotel rooms, with ample space, cable television, a DVD player and a very welcoming, large patio.

During our stay, we became familiar with the many programs the hotel supports to assist the local people, including scholarships, school support and vocational instruction. There is also an animal-rehabilitation program supported by the resort with a full-time vet. It is an amazing example of beneficial partnerships designed to support a local economy.

A gallery in town provides local artists a venue, and local crafts are available in some of the small stores. The market is full of fresh produce from the surrounding rancheros and farms, and the sea provides fish caught just hours before. Nicaraguan coffee is a special, portable gift for family or friends.

Evenings offered an opportunity to see nesting sea turtles or to enjoy a magnificent sunset sail.

Since we were in San Juan del Sur during the “green” season, meaning plenty of afternoon and evening thunder showers, the hotel rate was a bit lower. The quoted rate for our room was $145 plus 15% tax per night, including full breakfast. Upon arrival, this was lowered by 20% per day due to its being the low season, which starts mid-September and goes to early November.

Our trip cost $1,400 for two, including hotels, transportation, meals, souvenirs and gratuities. We used frequent-flyer miles for our air travel.

Nicaragua is a beautiful land to visit.

CAROL ARRITT

Trabuco Canyon, CA