Wine and dine in Chile

From a few days in Chile, including Easter Island, Oct. 29-Nov. 8, 2009, here are our recommendations.

In Santiago, Plaza el Bosque Suites (2800 San Sebastian, Las Condes, Santiago; www.plazaelbosque.cl) is two blocks from the metro and surrounded by good restaurants. It’s an excellent 3-star hotel offering suites with a separate living room and kitchen for under $200 per night, double, including breakfast.

We especially liked Coco Loco (215 El Bosque Norte, Santiago), around the corner. We spent less than $40, including wine and Dulce de Leche mousse, Peruvian style, which was the best dessert I think I have ever eaten.

Everywhere in Chile we shared an appetizer or salad and the main course because the portions are huge even by American standards.

We also loved the food at Como Agua Para Chocolate (88 Constitución, Providencia; www.comoaguaparachocolate.cl). Again, we shared, spending about $20 per person. The place is touristy and the service erratic (wonderful the first time we went, poor the second), but the food made even the second visit worth it.

Ice cream is wonderful in Chile, with American-size scoops at about American prices. We especially liked Fragola, corner of El Bosque Norte and San Sebastian in Las Condes.

If you are touring Chilean wineries west of Santiago, consider Casas del Bosque (www.casasdelbosque.cl), an organic winery in the Casablanca Valley that plays classical music for the wine while it ages. They claim experiments prove that the wine tastes better that way.

Matetic (www.metatic.com) is another winery in Rosario Valley that is organic, using biodynamic farming and an army of 1,000 chickens to eat the insects. The guide was quite funny, saying that if the “army” goes on strike, the staff will eat the army and hatch a new one. You need to make reservations for the wineries, since they do not have tours every day.

Southwest of Santiago in Pomaire, a cute little two-block town full of shops, we ate at the restaurant Naranja. The restaurant’s sign is easy to spot. Our shared cost was about $15 per person for delicious food.

On Easter Island we stayed at the Taha Tai Hotel (Apina Nui S/N, Casilla 11, Easter Island; phone 56 32 551 192), a few blocks’ walk from town. Though close in, it was quiet.

Our room was included in a package arranged by Chilean Special Journeys, but the listed price was $180 double. The room was simple but had an air-conditioner, which wasn’t necessary since it was cool and rainy. The staff was very nice. Internet cost $4 per hour.

We had very tasty meals at Café Ra’a (Atamu Tekena, Hanga Roa) and Merahi Ra’a (Av Te Pito O Te Henua). Each cost about $20 per person, since we shared.

Our trip was set up by Scott Jones of Chilean Special Journeys (888/345-6077; www.chileanspecialjourneys.com) for $2,285 per person, including all hotels, breakfasts and some meals, daily private guide and driver, admissions and airport transfers but not airfare.

Our guide, Ramon Edmunds (phone 56 32 100 411), was excellent and spoke excellent English from several years of living in the USA.

HARRIET HUGHES

Alexandria, VA