Battle of the Bulge tour
This item appears on page 15 of the January 2016 issue.
Having completed a privately guided tour of WWII Battle of the Bulge sites in Belgium in September 2015, I would like to share some observations for those considering a visit to that historically significant area.
After the Allies landed on the beaches of Normandy in June 1944, they swept north, largely driving the Nazi forces out of Belgium, Luxembourg and the Netherlands. The front line of battle in that region stretched from north to south near the German border with Belgium.
A huge counteroffensive launched by the Nazis in mid-December pushed the center of the Allies’ front line to the west, creating a “bulge,” thus the name of the battles that ensued. After reclaiming the lost territory by late January 1945, the Allies continued their march into Germany.
Most notable to my travel friend Joe Brumbaugh and me were the many monuments, memorials and plaques recognizing the accomplishments and sacrifices of Allied combatants. We saw American flags, Sherman tanks and flowers (often fresh) at many of the sites. To this day, Belgians in the Bulge area demonstrate their appreciation of the “Greatest Generation” of Americans who sacrificed so much to drive the Nazis out of Belgium.
Pre-trip research revealed that many of the most significant battles were in secluded rural areas that would be nearly impossible to find without a knowledgeable guide. After searching the Internet for Battle of the Bulge tours and guides, Joe and I identified a dozen possibilities, and, for us, the best guide seemed to be Henri Mignon (henri mignon@hotmail.com), who, after exchanging several emails with us, agreed to our dates and objectives.
Henri’s daily fee was €300 (near $326), including use of his automobile, which could accommodate four passengers.
A career officer in the Belgian Army and an expert on the history of the battle, Henri is a superb guide and speaks excellent English.
At the time of the battle, he was 9 years old and living in the area near the Bulge. His home had been occupied by Nazis at times and by Allies at other times. During the battle, his father was killed by shrapnel from an artillery shell and his house was destroyed by fire.
After the battle, Henri spent several months visiting battle sites and exploring the abandoned arms, vehicles and accoutrements of both the American and Nazi armies. His firsthand observations added immeasurably to our understanding of the battle.
Here are suggestions for anyone planning a tour of the Bulge area:
• Engage the services of a local guide. WWII battlefield tactics were complicated and require expert interpretation to be understood.
• Allow at least three full days for the tour. Joe and I, both former officers in the US Army, found our three days too short to fully explore the Bastogne Barracks museum (Route de la Roche 40, Bastogne; phone +32 61 24 21 24) and the Royal Museum of the Armed Forces and of Military History (Jubelpark 3, Brussels; phone +32 2 737 78 11, www.klm-mra.be). We found those to be the two most interesting of the several area museums; they shouldn’t be missed.
• Study the battle before touring the battlefield. There was no well-defined front line as one normally thinks of in a battle. Rather, as control of the roads was a key element in the Nazis’ offensive strategy and the Allies’ defensive strategy, most of the important action took place near road intersections located across a wide area.
A visit to the Luxembourg American Cemetery & Memorial (50, Val du Scheid, 2517 Luxembourg City, Luxembourg; phone +352 43 17 27, www.abmc.gov/cemeteries-
memorials/europe/luxembourg-american-cemetery) was very worthwhile. It is the location of General George Patton’s grave and a grand monument to Americans who died fighting for democracy.
Those with questions may contact me at hkwindland@aol.com or 618/692-7296.
HARRY WINDLAND
Edwardsville, IL