Bits on Venice

From 1953 to 2014, I visited Venice, Italy, eight times. Here is a memory dump of a few things that I think are nice to know if you’re planning to go there. 

Hotel Danieli (Castello 4196, Venice, 30122, Italy; phone +39 041 5226480, www.danielihotel
venice.com) has charm and location. From the fourth-floor terrace, the reflection of a full-moon streak on the water of the lagoon after dinner can’t be beat. 

However, when I was last there five years ago, if the maître d‘ was looking after a party of 12, the service could be poor. Also, the hotel’s bar had charm, but a gin-and-tonic was billed as two things. If you wanted the charm, you had to pay, so I paid.

Pensione Accademia (Fondamenta Bollani 1058, Dorsoduro, 30123, Venice, Italy; phone +39 0415210188, www.pensione
accademia.it/en/home-en) has two gardens. The one out front is paved and has planters. The back one has real grass with flower borders, a swing and also tables and chairs for reading or lounging with drinks as needed, plus a fountain. 

 My only complaints — the room bill was presented too shortly before departure, and there was no tronc [tip fund shared by all the staff — Editor] to make it easy to thank the unseen staff. The desk wanted it all.

Worth a visit is Trattoria da Roberto (Castello 4707, Campo San Provolo, Venice, Italy; phone +39 041 5221506, www.trattoriada
roberto.com [in Italian only]), north of the Church of San Zaccaria. Five years ago it was slightly pretentious, with a greeter at the entrance. 

To get to the trattoria, walk north up along the canal Rio del Vin, which is east of Hotel Danieli. There are steps up and onto the campo [square]. 

A restaurant that was my personal favorite five years ago is Osteria da Carla, otherwise known as Pietro Panizzolo (Corte Contarina 1535, 30124 San Marco, Venezia; phone +39 041 5237855, www.osteriada
carla.it). From Campo San Moisè, go to the left of the Chiesa (Church) di San Moisè onto Salizada San Moisè and left onto Calle Frezzeria. Continue uphill and you’ll bump into its front.

It was tiny, and the kitchen was open. They would ask if you had a reservation. (I never did.) It was there that a couple, seeing me “eating with such gusto” (baby lamb chops), came in and paid for my meal. 

In Venice, vaporetti stop at floats, so, with a ramp to dry land, it’s roll on and roll off. Water taxis stop at ladders, and the climb depends on the state of the tide. The exception is at Pensione Accademia, which has elegant steps leading to the water, with a wide plank that takes you from a taxi to the steps.

In Venice, the building numbers are not in serial order, so they’re no help in finding a place. You need to know how a building is placed in relation to other landmarks, such as churches, bridges, calles [narrow streets], fondamenti (sidewalks alongside canals), etc.

The printed maps I have bought all seem to differ in details and in legibility. I think they update bit by bit or maybe not for long periods. Just don’t expect perfection. 

My favorite map* was published by Hallwag (www.swisstravel
center.ch/strassenkarten.html). It’s a 1:5,500-scale accordion fold on enamel cardstock. I applied my own high-quality plastic tape to hold the sections in place. It’s 4¼"x9" when folded and 25 inches wide, extended. I have had it at least 15 years.

 GEORGE MUEDEN
 Providence, RI

*The Hallwag map is available on the company’s website for CHF9.80 [near $10].