Advice on visiting Morocco’s medinas

By Kimberly A. Edwards
This item appears on page 15 of the July 2017 issue.
Entrance to the medina in Marrakech.

I toured northern Morocco, along with my significant other, in October 2016 on a trip arranged through Julia Travel (C/ Pablo Iglesias, 84 [Poligono Pedrosa], 08908 L’Hospitalet de Llobregat, Barcelona, Spain; phone +34 93 402 69 00, julia travel.com)

This was a side trip to a stay in Spain, and we purchased the trip through our hometown travel agent. The cost of our 6-night Morocco tour was about $800 per person. Most meals were included, as was a choice of 3- or 4-star hotels.

While the itinerary provided visits to many attractions, the enduring memories were of the medinas we visited as we toured Fes, Marrakech, Rabat, Casablanca and Tangier.

As the distinct, old-city “walled” core, the medina heralds the cultural, historical and religious signature of each Moroccan town.

Entrance to the medina in Fes. Photo by Kimberly Edwards

Winding lanes buzz with shoppers, craftsmen, shopkeepers, pharmacists and food-cart tenders. Booths are crammed along mazes, twisting and turning in all directions. Spices, teas, handicrafts, leather, pottery, baked bread and fragrances fill the senses along alleyways from which locals emerge from seemingly invisible neighborhoods.

While a medina can be baffling to tourists, a visit can offer an appreciation for Morocco’s rich culture and traditions. Following are tips on visiting medinas.

• Read up on the medina before visiting. Every medina has its own aura. 

• Know if there is something in particular you want to see — a craft, a clothing shop, a carpet showroom. For example, does the medina have a leather factory you’ve read about, such as the one in Fes?

• It’s easier to concentrate on walking and enjoying things if you don’t take pictures, but, if you must, consider limiting photos to the big gate at the entrance of every medina.

Leather factory workers in Fes.

Ask before photographing someone or their business or wares. Also, some vendors and performers (e.g., dancers, snake charmers) may ask for a contribution for photos taken.

• Carry small change in a convenient pocket in case you want to buy a handicraft. That way, you won’t tip anyone off as to where you carry the rest of your money.

• Walk with confidence. Those who don’t are more vulnerable to strong sales pitches.

• If someone offers to “show you around,” he or she most likely either is motivated by tip money or is leading you to a particular vendor. You can always say you have a guide awaiting you at a nearby location.

• Avoid asking to see a piece of jewelry unless you are certain that you’re interested. Many items (such as jewelry) hang behind glass without a visible price tag. Once you show interest, you will be expected to bargain or to look at alternatives.

• If you find yourself in a dispute over a purchase price, don’t buy. Thank the vendor and walk away.

Kimberly Edwards (right) and the owner of a dress shop in Fes.

• If you’re not interested in something, resist the temptation to be drawn into a sale. If you find yourself on the receiving end of a presentation on rugs or “pharmaceutical” merchandise, be pleasant and respectful, but, again, if you’re not interested, avoid prolonging any interaction.

(One person in our tour group complimented a vendor on his rugs and was invited into a side room, where he received a strong sell for a rug he didn’t want. He was greatly relieved to “escape” without making a purchase, and he learned not to show interest just to try to be nice.)

• If you get lost, ask for directions. With their meandering alleys, medinas can seem chaotic, but the people are nice and will try to help.

• If you would like to hire a guide to show you through the medina, ask a member of the staff at your hotel to secure one for you. This is preferable to finding one at the medina, itself, or on the street.

• Write down your impressions after exiting the medina, as these fresh impressions will become valued memories.

KIMBERLY A. EDWARDS
Sacramento, CA