This article appears in our Print Edition, December 2014 -- Page 0
In my work throughout Europe, I struggle almost daily with this issue: When is a tourist experience actually a unique slice of a culture, and when is it a tired cliche kept alive by the travel industry? Amped-up Spanish flamenco bars, dirndl skirts in Germany, ape tours of the Rock of Gibraltar -- when does something slip from being authentic to cheesy?
When you've traveled for several decades as I have, you witness genuine customs giving way to rising commercialization...
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This article appears in our Print Edition, December 2014 -- Page 0
I find the holiday season in Rome a joy: crisp air; stylish big-city Italians cupping hot cappuccino in corner cafes; and hurried shoppers bundled up with panache, thoughtfully pausing at grand manger scenes. The season here stretches for over a month -- not to maximize shopping days, but to fit in the season's many holy days.
As home to Vatican City, the headquarters of the Roman Catholic Church, Rome is rich with Christmas' most sacred...
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This article appears in our Print Edition, December 2014 -- Page 0
Paris celebrates Christmas with its typical urban flair: extravagant lighting, yummy window displays, and ice skating in the heart of the city. If you go, here are 10 ways to have a "Joyeux Noel" in the City of Light ... without breaking the bank.
FIND A CHRISTMAS CAROUSEL. These seasonal merry-go-rounds (called "Maneges de Noel") pop up in every neighborhood in Paris. The biggies are at Hotel de Ville, Place Joffre near the Eiffel Tower and at the base...
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This article appears in our Print Edition, December 2014 -- Page 0
From a traveler's perspective, Nurnberg -- Bavaria's second city -- has it all: excellent museums, thought-provoking history, glorious red-sandstone Gothic architecture, and a charming Old Town encircled by a nearly intact medieval wall. It also boasts Germany's largest (and most famous) Christmas market, along with the country's tiniest (and most beloved) sausage.
Nurnberg was one of Europe's leading cities around 1500. Its large ...
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This article appears in our Print Edition, November 2014 -- Page 61
Sometimes I wonder why I lug my bag through airports, following my own recommendation to pack light enough to carry on and avoid checking any bags on international flights. It can be a drag, dragging your bag through airports, but when scrambling with last-minute changes in flight plans, those without checked bags are far more nimble.
Over the years, I’ve learned some tricks on dealing with European airports. Here are a few of them.
Pack Light and Carry It On — When you...
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This article appears in our Print Edition, October 2014 -- Page 59
When I’m in Italy, I generally eat only Italian food. I doubt there’s another country in Europe (except France) that could hold my palate’s interest so easily.
Italians are passionate about food. Cuisine is like a religion, and it’s the quality of the ingredients that’s most sacred. They tell me French cuisine is the art of making a fine sauce to cover the taste of mediocre ingredients. In Italy, they say, “La miglior cucina comincia dal mercato” (“The best cuisine starts from the...
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This article appears in our Print Edition, September 2014 -- Page 60
I love France. It is one of Europe’s most diverse, tasty and exciting countries. It brims with the good life and a special appreciation for culture, music, art, food and wine.
But Americans can feel pretty dowdy when confronted with the casual sophistication of the French, who are matchless when it comes to just about anything suave and urbane. In my early days of touring France, I used to worry about being a cultural bumpkin, but now I embrace it. After all, I travel to learn...
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This article appears in our Print Edition, August 2014 -- Page 62
