Argentina

I found the Hotel Gran King in Buenos Aires right at the intersection of the two main pedestrian streets Calle Florida and Calle Lavalle to be perfect - each direction of these streets took me to interesting parts of the city. I used the occasionally cranky public transit and it worked fine to get everywhere else I wanted to go and this hotel is only a few blocks from two of the stations. The street theater on these two grand shopping and cafe avenues is a delight day and night. (I was there a few years ago - hope things have not changed much - it was very safe then and stores closed during their financial meltdown were coming back to life.)
I followed an excellent local dining blog I found online and learned a lot about favorite local places to eat and where to avoid. I got tickets for the opera and did a back stage tour. This is a wonderful walking city full of tree lined streets, ornate architecture, shops, cafes, gelato stands and grill restaurants on every block. Each of it several main neighborhoods is interesting to visit.
Do watch out for fake currency scams, check you bills very carefully- only use a cab called by your hotel or another well-known hotel if you are out in other parts of town. Try to only use coins and not bills in taxi cabs. If someone claims you are giving them fake bills, stop handing them any more bills and tell them you will take this up with the police station and the tourist office.
WowArgentina travel agency got great reviews for travel help when you are there.

Following are notes that I compiled from various sources, including ITN Message Board respondents, prior to my trip through Buenos Aires en route to the Antarctic:
Ideally, you would want 5 full days to see the main sights, museums, tango shows, shopping areas and do a day trip to a Gaucho Ranch. Per an ITN writer, “I like a city where the food is both expansive and inexpensive, and where taxi fares are so nominal that after our city tours, we are able to return to key areas in various parts of the city so easily.”
BA Food:
** La Cabanas Las Lilas (Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 516, www.laslilas.com.ar) Make a reservation & ask for non-smoking area. Occupying a converted warehouse in the docks of Puerto Madero, wood-paneled Las Lilas is the destination of choice. More expensive, but worth it per ITN respondents and 1000 Places. Per ITN writer, “Our favorite dinner was in the Puerto Madero barrio at Las Lilas. We enjoyed the famed Argentinian beef but especially liked being able to dine al fresco at one of the restored brick buildings with views of a long harbor on the River Plate (Rio de la Plata). After dinner and a harbor stroll, we were surprised to find a bustling ice cream shop on the harbor bursting with patrons of all ages – and it was after midnight.”
**Puerto Madero, the old cruise ship terminal, has been converted into restaurants, bars, and shops. Some of the best steak restaurants are here.
**Steak dinner at Posta Recoleta Bodegon (Junin 1767 in the Rocoleta area)
**Cheaper grill dinners at Estancia on Calle Lavalle
**La Biela is a good outdoor lunch café near the cemetery. Lomo Biela is their signature sandwich.
We recommend **Hot chocolate at Café Tortoni (Avenida de Mayo 825 near Plaza de Mayo, www.cafetortoni.com.ar) with its marble tabletops, red leather seats, Tiffany glass ceiling, tuxedoed waiters, and a table grouping with life-sized diners fashioned in wax. Although the food is not outstanding, this is truly an experience. Cafes are a way of life in BA and Tortoni is the oldest (1858) and most traditional café for coffee and snacks. Have a “media luna” which is lika a croissant and coffee or hot chocolate and people watch. On weekends there’s a tango show in the back room.
BA To Do:
Museo Evita, Lafinur 2988, C1425FAB Buenos Aires. Museum is in a restored Italian Renaissance style home that once housed Eva Peron’s social aid foundation. Exhibits are in chronological order. Also good restaurant on patio.
We recommend *ASAP Book a show at Carlos Guardel Tango Show. (www.esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar) If not available, ask the concierge for a recommendation. All tango shows are different! 1000 Places recommends dance halls at Viejo Almacen (799 Acenida Balcarce or Balcarce & Independencia, San Telmo, 54/11-4307-6689, www.viejo-almacen.com.ar, $40 pp; Su-Th 10:00, F,Sa 9:30 and 11:45) and Casa Blanca, (668 Avenida Balcarce, San Telmo, 54/11-4331-4621, $40 pp; M-F 10:00, Sa 9:00 and 11:00) And per ITN writer saw “the best, and longest, show while having a fine meal with good Malbed wine at La Ventana (Balcarce 431)”
**ASAP Book a performance at Teatro Colon, one of the top opera houses in the world, located on 9 de Julio, the widest street in the world. If your visit falls between performances, book a tour of the building. Also, note that free chamber concerts are held nearly every weekday afternoon in their grand Versailles-style antechamber called the Salon Dorado (Gold Room). www.teatrocolon.org.ar. May still be closed due to renovations.
We recommend **Evita’s grave at Recoleta Cemetery – covers 4 blocks and 5000 tombs. Not only is Eva Peron buried there in a tomb inscribed in the Spanish tradition with her family name, Duarte, but the ornate mausoleums of the rich and famous provide a glimpse into the wealth and opulence of the 19th and 20th century Argentina. The museum in Our Lady of Pilar Basilica offers a good overview of the cemetery. In this area is the Alevear Palace, (1891 Avenida Alvear) a luxury hotel suggested by 1000 Things…, is located in the heart of the elegant Recoleta district. Go into the opulent Ralph Lauren store.
We recommend Casa Rosada, with its balcony that made Evita famous. Located on Plaza de Mayo, the historical heart of the city. The Changing of the Guard occurs in the Plaza every hour on the hour as they march to the Cathedral where General Jose de san Martin is buried.
Touristy, but fun La Boca, at the mouth of the river, formerly home of Italian immigrants, with its brightly colored corrugated steel buildings, skilled artisans working in watercolors, silver and papier-mache, and musicians and actors and tango dancers. It is famous for its nightlife, but also great for spending a casual afternoon shopping at the street fair or enjoying the outdoor cafes. Local tango dancers perform for tips. While a bit touristy, El Caminito in La Boca is good “BA experience.”
Street Theater along Calle Florida, a pedestrian shopping street lined with vendors, shops and cafes, and near gelao stores and cafes on Calle Lavelle. Each street gives you a totally different feeling about the city if you walk them from end to end. Along Calle Florida, go inside Galerias pacific (Florida 753) to look at the dome.
San Telmo district, one of the oldest and more romantic areas of the city. At the centre lies the Plaza Dorrega, surrounded by colonial buildings. This area is filled with lively tango bars and traditional Argentinean cafes and restaurants and antique shops. This area might be seedy. If there on a Sunday, go to the San Telmo Flea Market which runs from 10 am til 6 pm. There are countless stands and live shows and is one of the best spots for admiring tango couples, or for receiving an impromptu lesson. Go early as this gets very crowded. Also, be alert for pickpockets and try to stay within the market’s boundaries.
Take a train ride to Tigre, to see the old rowing clubs, scenery, and upscale neighborhoods along the way. It costs about a dollar and takes an hour, but is a quiet retreat from the city. Tigre, a little town on the delta, is reminiscent of the Louisiana bayou (tigre.gov.ar). TBA runs a direct train or take the scenic route to Mitre and connect to the Tren de la Costa, which stops in towns with artisanal and antique fairs. Both trains leave from the Retiro Station in BA. (Budget Travel & ITN respondents)
The ‘buque bus’ boat trip to Uruguay colonial town across the river on the fast boat is an interesting and historic diversion. The high speed ferry takes you to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay in an hour ($31 each way). Be sure to get to the ferry terminal early to pass through immigration. (Budget Travel & ITN respondent)
Practical Details
Stylish locals go out to dine and play after 9 p.m.
Tipping norm is 10%
VAT is 21%
On TV there is a 24-hour Tango TV Channel
Argentina is a cash economy, so ATMs are your best bet. Big tourist hotels and swank restaurants take credit cards, but most places either don’t or will stick you with a surcharge if you pay with one. Tax-dodging is an art in Argentina, which often means if you pay in cash and ask for a discount, you may get a nod, a wink, and 10% off. (Budget Travel)
Beware of false currency scams. People, especially in cabs, can quickly switch your good peso notes for ‘falso’ ones and demand you give them another bill, leaving you with the fake one. Cabs are cheap. So always try to pay with exact money – keep a handful of coins ready. Also realize, there are lots of bad bills floating about, so learn to read the water marks on the good bills. There is a money exchange in the baggage area of the airport. You must show your passport when exchanging money. Most vendors and small stores will accept US dollars. Any big purchases can be by credit card, so you don’t have to change a whole lot into local money. Be sure your get small smaller bills.
Best way to get around in the city is on the metro, called the subte. Buses are generally NOT used by tourists. Pick up a free transport map detailing all the routes from the metro stations. If you have time, take a ride on Line A which runs east to west under Avenida de Mayo. It was the first line built in the city and the original wooden trains are still used on its tracks.
For Taxis, use Radio Taxi (name of company) Radio-taxis, when hailed on the street, can be recognized by the plastic light boxes on their rooftops. Do not take any-old taxi, especially if you are alone.
Another option is a remis, which is a private car service, arranged through the hotel.
For Airport transfer, use Quick Car SA, tel: 4312-3562 or quickcar@fibertel.com.ar Cost was $35 from airport to Sheraton, about a half hour.
Sightseeing: A van picks you up between 2:00 and 2:30 for a $25 city tour. Pay cash to the driver.
Call as soon as you get to your hotel or book ahead via email. They also do private tours.
ETERNAUTAS– Viajes Historicos
EVT 10.869 – Res 25/03 Av. Pte. Roque Saenz Pena 1124 4 o B (C1035AAT) Buenos Aires Telfax 54-11 43847874
Cel 15 4173-1078 consultas@eternautas.com
They also do private tours for about $100. One respondent took Café Society Buenos Aires and Socialist Buenos Aires tours and found them excellent
If you have a late flight home, you might want to check out of your hotel, do the spa, go back and get your luggage and head to the airport. Services range from a 5-hour Anti-Stress Day package costs $134 through a steam bath and one hour massage is only $38. (One respondent & Budget Travel)
Aqua Vita Medical Spa
Calle Arenales 1965
011-54-11/4812-5989
www.aquavitamedicalspa.com
First found on www.budgettravel.com; click on “tools” for the Snap Guide.

Wanda just gave you some great suggestions! Good choices.

Wanda just gave you some great suggestions! Good choices.